Traditional textiles globally recognised locally struggling
- The People's Chronicle Editorial :: October 05, 2022 -

WHILE it is inspiriting that four handmade traditional textiles from three north-eastern states, including Manipur, have found a mention in a UNESCO report titled 'Handmade for the 21st Century: Safeguarding Traditional Indian Textiles', the same report pointing out that the age-old indigenous art of weaving is facing serious threat to survival of what is still an essentially cottage industry underscores that the governments concerned must step in and do the needful.

All four handmade traditional textiles namely Lasing Phee and Saphee Lanphee of Manipur, Lepcha weaving of Sikkim and Risha textile of Tripura are of great religious and customary importance for the indigenous communities in these three states.

Up to now, these textiles have survived the test of time but restricting their Wide usage, especially Saphee Lanphee which is primarily limited to ceremonial events, is one of the reasons for their lack of popularity and marketability.

As had been mentioned in the UNESCO report, "handmade textiles appear to be fast dwindling in the face of the demands of modernity and the painstaking process of their creation can take months, if not years, from ideation to execution, and simply cannot compete with industrial competitors", without governmental initiative and sponsorship the traditional weavers might get weary and decide to venture into more profitable avenues of livelihood.

Though the UNESCO report noted that concrete efforts are being made by the government of Manipur and national retailers to source the traditional textiles and create better market linkages, it seem that there is hardly any scope for their large scale sale.

Contrary to the UNESCO report emphasising that the four indigenous textiles need active sustenance programmes, the ground reality is that the Lasing Phee, which is a quilt stuffed with cotton batting and hand-woven on the loom by weavers, has been practically replaced by industry-made quilts.

Due to lighter fabric, wide range of choices, durability and most importantly the price factor of quilts or blankets available in the market, the demand for Lasing Phee has been shrinking and the weavers are consequently staring at an unenviable future.

As such, it is hoped that the government will accord importance to UNESCO's suggestion that handmade textiles be taken stock of, and properly mapped in all their diversity.

Commendably, the government had recently issued advisories to heads of departments to use locally produced handloom products but the materials that could be of utility in the offices and during official events would be limited to table cloths, blinds and stoles.

With modern-day quilt products gradually replacing the Lasing Phee and the latter's lack of contact with either domestic markets beyond Manipur or with international markets unable to attract purchasers beyond the state, it is imperative that efforts be made for maximising market links for the local weavers.

In terms of Saphee Lanphee, it is believed that prior consultation with religious organisations and taking their consent to incorporate venerated motifs in wearable such as waistcoats and shawls, among others for use by the commoners might help in increasing the production level and facilitate the weavers have new and wider access to markets for their products.