Of Purity and Arrival of Spring

Kamal Baruah *

O, Wind, If winter comes, can Spring be far behind? English Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley has truly reflected hope, love, joy and imagination in his lyric poem Ode to the West Wind.

The winter season has just passed, leading to longer days and more sunlight. It’s almost time to hang up our winter cloths. The summer is going to arrive.

People across the globe mark the occasion in various ways. Most parts of North India see the early celebration of the famous Holi festival during spring. People come together for song, dance and to splash their loved ones with coloured powder and water.

Last year I had been to Doul Mohutsav at Barpeta Satra in Assam. It was established by Vishnavite saint Madhabdev in 1583.

The Holi at Kirtan Ghar occupies a special place for people of the entire state and a hundred km long drive from Guwahati on national highway in the wee hours made our journey memorable. It brought wonder all day long as there were hundreds of vehicles passing by along us.

Puri-Sabji at Nalbari was another attraction for ravenous visitors where we had to wait a long queue for breakfast at a famous roadside restaurant.

The Spring in Assam presents pleasant season with moderate temperature and rainfall. It is marked by a change in nature in which the sky is painted fire-reddened with the full bloomed flowers of Simalu tree (Bombax ceiba) all around.

There are countless numbers of red flowers in five petals waving us while passing over landscape from the tinted windows of our car. I remained nostalgic about the good old days where I spent my childhood in village.

Our daughter has witnessed such beauty of nature first-ever while exploring the surrounding countryside. We were playing in sun and wind over the Phagun season but we cherished with the nature of rain and thunder on our days. Those memories brought us aspiring to remain youthful even today.

As soon as the urban area arrived we felt the heat of the day. The Barpeta is known for narrow roads and a thickly populated area. We walked along with thousands of Holi devotees towards the shrine.

The entrance of the Kirtan Ghar is standing tall from a distance. We were pushed through a Mina Bazaar where readymade Puja Prasad is sold. People are very kind and loving person. As shoes are prohibited we were provided with free space for keeping shoes at their shoe store.

The entire area was in festive mood and the main door of Kirtan Ghar is well protected by few huge people. There is a tradition of offering Holi color at 7th Stairs Temple Doul by women but the Kirtan Ghar is out of bounds to women.

I somehow went inside amid rush of a huge crowd of fascinated women onlookers for a quick Darshan from outside the closed door. There are three Guru Ashanas by which they are dedicated towards Lord Krishna.

I amazed to see the wooden architecture of Monikut, big pillars, decorative wall paintings and two main wooden pillar traditionally known as Tulashi kuta which are simply marvellous from the architectural style of Ahom king.

Lighting at Akhay Banti (lamp) has spiritual significance. The ageing structure of the Satra needs new solution for maintenance. It is required to remove oil stains from brass. I took some photography all alone as my family had to wait outside. This was really frustrating me.

Is Barpeta another Sabarimala in Assam where women devotee are not permitted to worship? The ban violates the right to equality under Article 14 and freedom of religion under Article 25.

Srimanta Shankardeva the founder of Ekasarana Dharma never discriminated amongst people in other Satras like Auniaati Satra in Majuli. Surprisingly local women have accepted this predicament.

Soon we returned to our car, I showed my family a video tour taken inside the Satra. The gender segregation has got left nothing as everyone could see what is there inside.

The very notion of purity and pollution on the basis of menstruation has been questioned. Ex-Prime Minister Indira Gandhi, writer Amrita Pritam and Mamoni Raisom Goswami have tried to breach the long imposed ban.

Then Governor JB Pattnaik also got shocked to learn such restriction on women while visiting the Patbausi Satra. Religious rights may not liberate women and the real fight is against patriarchy ingrained in our society.

But the very presence of discriminatory traditions and customs are challenging in 21st century. No place should be inaccessible for women because of their gender. Be it the dargahs of Nijamuddin Aulia or Piya Hazi Ali or the Satras of Barpeta.

Once it becomes accessible then women can choose whether to visit or not. Ushering in the arrival of spring, my memories of bright colours of those days are still vivid today.

I wish women could visit for a prayer inside the Barpeta Kirtan Ghar in coming days. This will signify the victory of good over evil and spreading happiness and love.