Tribal hand woven fabrics of Manipur
- Part 16 -

By: Mutua Bahadur *

Vaiphei

The Vaiphei do not own more than four kinds of cloths. Puandum (Fig. 143), Khengkoi (Fig. 145), Thanso Punvek (Fig.154), Gol-Luipon (Fig. 144) are the four kinds of cloths. Men wear Puandum which has a small yellow band between the wide bands in black and red. Khengkoi is worn by women.

On its white base lies various extra weft designs denoting Thalka (spearhead) and Lanbunthuam (fishing net), and the designs are created with red, blue and yellow thread. This fanek is worn during marriage ceremony and other fairs and festivals. Another skirt (fanek) which has black and red stripes and known as Gol-Luipon is regarded as a rare and the most traditional cloth of the Vaiphei.

Thanso Punvek (Fig. 154) is a fanek striped in black and red. This fanek is worn particularly at the death rituals of heroes. During the same occasion men also use it to wrap as shawl. Its use at any other occasion is not permitted in the Vaiphei society.

Zou

The Zous are possessors of not fewer than nine kinds of cloths. To mention a few, they include Sihpuan, Pasal Puandum, B.A. Puandum (Fig. 146), etc. Men’s wear, Sihpuan, is a black cloth having a border band in red and it is also crafted in yellow ‘X’-shaped marks. The cloth is worn while taking part in funeral functions.

Pasal Puandum is used by men. It has also ‘X’ patterns in black, red, green, yellow and white. B.A. Puandum is also a men’s cloth which is awarded to those who come out with flying colours in academic field. It is a combined sheet of black, pink, white, blue and green threads. Small extra weft designs are also made on this cloth. Puanlaisan is used by menfolk to cover loosely around their shoulders.

It is composed of white in majority and complemented with stripes in red and black colours. Besides, extra weft designs at some regions beautify the cloth. Ngong-on is marked by red and white stripes in black and, on the white area, there are some small extra weft designs.

In funeral occasions it is used by men as head dress. Kangthapuan (Fig. 147) is also a men’s cloth having black, green, yellow, red and white colour. At some portion of the cloth, there are found extra weft patterns.

Puandum is a skirt worn by Vaiphei women. The cloth is made using mainly green, black and red thread. Another striped skirt (fanek) of the Vaiphei ladies is Zoulamnik (Fig 148) that comprises of black and red colour.

See a gallery photo of Tribal hand woven fabrics of Manipur here.

To be continued ....

Mutua Bahadur

* Mutua Bahadur contributes to e-pao.net regularly. This article was webcasted on March 25, 2013.