TODAY -

E-Pao! EI - Looking Eastward: Let Us Be Realistic

Looking Eastward: Let Us Be Realistic
Part 1

By: R. K.Shivachandra *



Myanmar is like a newly found friend for India. Despite the fact that Myanmar is only the Country in the entire South East Asia with which India share a maritime and land route boundaries, India seemed to have overdosed by the concept of democracy and was not in that good term with her supposed to be best friend "Myanmar" earlier.

India seemed to have realized this importance in the late 90s only. Prior to that India was more idealistic in supporting the democracy movement and understood later that a constructive and congenial atmosphere should be created at whatever the cost it may be with her immediate neighbor Myanmar.

The ground realities include the security of the North East Region, economic interest in South Asian Region and most significantly China's continuous influence and over tune over the land of Myanmar. For all these factors India has to switch to a "U" turn and started to improve the overdue "would have been relationship" with Myanmar since 1992. An Impressive bilateral ties has been developed since than.

Today Myanmar is indeed a good friend of India and as a result of it Indians can visit any part/destination in Myanmar by land route via Tammu without passport and visa formalities in-group. Everybody in Manipur, who happens to visit Tammu quiet often, understands that till 90s there were strict immigration formalities in the Myanmar side and beyond Tammu that was a mystic land for all the visitors.

In a bid to improve the relationship further a Myanmar Cultural delegation from Yangon under the leadership of Mr. Tin Muan Shwai Dy. Director General Hotel and Tourism of Myanmar performed a Cultural Fest under the title "Myanmar Cultural Night Show" in Hotel Ashoka Hotel in New Delhi during last year December 2004.

The show was graced by Ms. Renuka Chaudhury, Indian Union Minister of Tourism as to be the Chief Guest and the show evoked a new taste to the Indians lifestyle. His Excellency U Kyi Thien, Embassy of the Union of Myanmar in India presided over the function.

I was invited to the Cultural Night Show from Yangon Tourism Department to take part in the function as the show was performed for the first time in the India soil. Mr. Bijoy Koijam our Hon'ble MLA, who had long been associated with the Myanmarese in the area of border trade before he became a politician, was also invited in the colorful Night Show as Guest of Honor.

Among many important topics and discussion, I was delighted for one reason that I made an appointment with Ms. Renuka Chaudhury our Union Tourism Minister and apprised her that Indian can visit Myanmar at any point of time without passport and visa as a tourist via Imphal.

My information was passed over to her just few minutes before the show was suppose to begin and it deserved to summon the nearest private secretary by the Hon'ble Minister and ordered to record it down for her to reflect it in the speech.

I also apprised her that soon after the Myanmar showed the road to Yangon and other destination in Myanmar with a goodwill gesture to the extent of waiving-off passport and visa formalities for Indians, Indo Myanmar Fraternal Alliance in Manipur anticipated to the call by roughly handling about 5 tour packages at different locations in Myanmar. It was considered as a call of duty towards bringing about more closer ties between the two nations.

"Just while ago I met the President of Indo Myanmar Fraternal Alliance from Manipur and I am told that Indians can visit tourist products of Myanmar without passport and visa via Imphal", a seemingly impressed tourism Minister pointed out in her in her inaugural speech. The mesmerized articulate tone further appreciated Mr.Kyi Thein,Embassy of Myanmar for extending permission to the Indian tourists.

The twenty minutes speech mainly emphasized on Manipur and role the border state can possibly initiate in furthering the ties of the two nations which has strong cultural heritage akin to both, she elaborated. She also assured that the road to Myanmar through Manipur would be highlighted in all the tourist map guide giving full details. That will attract tourist all over the country and Manipur would wholly benefit out of it, she commented.

Next day I paid a visit to the Embassy of Myanmar at Chanyakapuri,New Delhi. I was invited for a cup of tea and of course a brief discussion on how the relationships between the two countries may remain intact and about the possible tourism avenues on the borderline. My straight forward suggestion in the capacity as the President of the Alliance was " Manipur is a very important state/province that can cement the the ties further between the two countries.

The people of Manipur because of her topographical feature and by the virtue of being the immediate neighbour to Myanmar that shares a common border, has a pivotal role to play in this two nations love affairs". I also proposed for a friendly Women Football Exhibition match between Myanmar 11 and Manipur 11 which is fully encouraged by the Embassy.

Anybody from mainland India never dream off coming down to Manipur and proceeding to Myanmar for a holiday vacation. " Why should we take a risk for a holiday vacation" one lady tour operator from Delhi commented and continued, " The terrain is amply suited for adventurous lot who can expose themselves to risk".

This was the answer when the Tourism Director General of Myanmar suggested the route to Myanmar through Manipur in a quiet reasonable tour cost.

"The ever increasing kidnaps, ransom and highwaymen that would tickle you throughout the night" was something they joked and laughed among themselves. I knew that they didn't say wrong but the scar on my face never mean to project myself a dark- villain to others. Well it has always something to tell to others.

On the other hand my handicapped son is always the most loved and precious one when it comes to question the fathom of love. When they were bemusing on "Manipur" my mood has simply gone pensive.

Yes the increasing crimes had severely sapped the vitality of every promotional activities and not to speak of tourism alone. People are afraid to visit Manipur to death. We are the sons of the soil we claim but we cannot protect ourselves in difficult time and situation especially on the National Highway 39 and 53 terrain. In such situation how tourist will visit Manipur.

We talk big as if we can control everything but it never occurred in reality.

In one of my trips to Bangkok, I spent few days in a hotel room alone. The colorful Nightlife in Bangkok always invited me down the road. With an intention to explore more about Thailand, I followed the direction of my desire and next moment I found myself stood by the roadside of Patpong the red-light area in Bangkok. The road was jammed and packed with countless pillion riders with trendy motorbikes.

The crowd was so thick that it appears as if we can slice it with a sharp knife. Breaking my loneness I sneaked into a "Go Go bar" dancing hall with a beer mug in hand. The experienced bar stewards made me sit in the front row. It was like a dreamland I never knew what would happen next.

Soon the lady in her birthday suit appeared before me and sat close to me asking for a treat to her. I pleaded her to go away but she would never listen to. With a note of disagreeing against her attitude I gave a little harsh slap on her and all the trouble started since than.

Few big guys dragged me up by the collar cornered me to the death-end of the terrace. I could felt the hard pressing of the point of barrel on my chest. I felt as if everything has gone for good. I had few hundred US Dollars in my pocket and I was to catch a connecting flight to Taiwan the next day than to Seoul, South Korea.

The wit acted in my brain quickly that I soon bundled the US dollars undergarment and left the Thailand bahts in my pocket. They took the Thailand bahts all and showed me a tunnel as exit.

Thanks goes to the unseen Almighty for saving the US dollars and me that is how the story in South Korea continues. Later I realized women cannot be either slapped or assault in a public place in Thailand.

But crime cases in Dimapur and elsewhere on the National Highway 39 stretch in Manipur is not less spine chilling than those of Hong Kong and Thailand. Sometimes racketeers in Hong Kong and Thailand will have to learn and study the crime cases of this side of the glove so as to advance their network.

One faithful night I disembarked from a 'night super' bus coming from Gauhati to Dimapur. It was predawn and few passersby were seen strolling. As for me Dimapur is like a hometown of my own. I could never imagine of anything negative in Dimapur.

The Bus parking area was too crowded and I along with one of my friends who are seldom traveler outside Manipur engaged an autorikshow and headed towards Church Road to one of my friend's residence. Soon as I get off the auto some local thugs cordoned me and started frisking me all over the body. Some of them got two small guns, which came to my temple, and one to my belly.

I have heard earlier of a few cases of robbery in Dimapur. Many were thrown in the thick jungle after full stripped and robbed. If the victim could regain consciousness he is lucky one if not he is another name in the list in the victim of the Police file. And so far not a single trace could have been made. Sensing the trouble I signaled my friend in the auto to escape the scene. The auto driver was a clever fellow he soon sped away with my friend. That day I came back from Katmandu, Nepal.

There were lots of merchandised items purchased from Nepal. I felt as I was heading for a slaughterhouse and I was a bull. I refused but they tried to drag me in to the vehicle. I could well foresee the next scene that I would be blindfolded and hit on the head. Thereafter they would rob me and abandon me somewhere; suitably my senseless body can belong to.

Like a hero in a typical Hindi film I switched into action. I dropped the gun with both hands pointed against my belly and temple and like the cat, which bites, and scratch in self-defense, I boxed the one who was directly facing me. I took to heels and caught a running bus, which was passing my way by sheer luck. I heard few Bang…Bang at my back. Anyway the bullet doesn't come after me.

I was safely landed again to the same crowded bus station and by than the sunray had beamed and Dimapur came to light. But this is not the end of the story. I saw from a distance that the group, who attacked me, this time larger in number, started hunting me down among the crowds. I was alarmed thinking where should I run and take shelter.

Police station is not safe and too far from the station even it is safe. Suddenly I took a risk thinking that on the train station there will be a lot of army jawans waiting for trains and I should run towards the station was my second and prompt instinct. I had the fastest 200 mtrs. race that day in my life with my chest puffing out. Had Mr. Ben Johnson happen to be around he would have shaken my hand in appreciation.

My presumption exactly came out true. There were dozens of AK 47 clad jawans on the station and without a word I reached one of those guns which belonged to the jawans in an attempt to frighten those cruel chasers. But the scene was worse. I was made lie down by the jawans and properly massaged me for I tried to reach one of their weapons.

Later they realized my ignorance and helped me. They were of the impression that I was an extremist or a member of faction in Nagaland.

On my way back home I reassured myself that I was alive. The way I acted on the platform with the Army personnel could have been enough reason for me to bid adieu to this wonderful Earth that I adored much. This is an experience in life and lot less spine chilling than the accident occurred in Bangkok.

Back home to Manipur…. Tourism is still a far cry situation out here. It is hard to study how human being are kidnapped for ransom. Why cannot tourist from other states at least have a sight of relief when they visit here? Why the people of Manipur cannot stand as a single body and say a big "NO" to this entire nuisance. The system is deplorable, and human value had been vanished into thin air.

In fact many visitors from Assam ,Nagaland and Meghalaya wanted to visit Manipur and proceeding to Myanmar by land route. The bus drive amidst the picturesque landscape of Myanmar up to Kalewa and resume a river cruise on the Chin Win river is something saleable to others.

This is something many tourists dream of. But due to increasing kidnappings and harassment to the outsiders as well as to the local by some senseless people made Manipur a mess. Everybody preferred muffling their mouth only stupid few people like me spoke.

The Government of India needs a sincere approach and see things through the so Called "Look East" lens. So long as this PAP/RAP and other restriction imposed, there will not be real meaning of LOOK EAST policy. Some months back Embassy of Bulgaria along with his family members wanted to pass through Manipur from Myanmar by land route.

He had clearance from Delhi but he was not allowed in Manipur's border by some agencies. Such cases occurred quite often. An American team too wrote me a letter that they wanted to visit Myanmar via Manipur. A similar letter also received from Myanmar Embassy in New Delhi to help them for I am a tour agent.

But the whole formalities, which I have to complete, and permission supposed to be sought from Indian Home Ministry etc. has compelled to skip their visit. We the people of Manipur are the losers. When there are tourists we will develop, promote in all round spheres.

It is really callous on the part of Manipur Government and India Government as well that there are so many spots where photography is restricted. What do we have? I had been to various part of the world I could not find much Photography restricted plaque as it is seen in Manipur.

Even to the Myanmar where military ruled, the photography is free nothing like as it is in Manipur. The Government acted as if we have valuable national properties or installing renowned factory here. Unnecessarily we blow too much security alarm. Whenever any foreigners comes here, the SB personnel will trail him days in days out, spared only when he went to lavatory.

This is anti tourist attitude. When one of the former Secretaries of Tourism came to Manipur as a part of the tourism promotional program he sought policy/ suggestion from many NGOs and entrepreneurs in Manipur on how the tourism should be promoted and improved. The single reply was to withdraw this restriction PAP/RAP and others from the face of Manipur.

The tight-lipped messenger had to consult the higher-up in New Delhi. Then Why talk of tourism in Manipur when there is a lot of imposition on the tourist. It is a cruel joke on the part of the Government.

We have also now a big tourism project on the anvil. Most of the Myanmarese who are largely devout Buddhist always wish to visit the sacred Buddhist monastery circle in India. Every year thousands of Myanmar pilgrims came to visit the Buddha Gaya by air, which cost them few lakhs. But this has been an affair of wealthy ones and hefty few. The middle class Myanmarese is still wishing to visit Buddha Gaya through Manipur at a lower cost. People from Tammu, Kalemyu and Mandalay have time and again queried me in this matter.

Now it is the turn of the Government of India to answer the question. The Military Junta which had a strict norms and formalities had shown its goodwill gesture by allowing the Indian to its soil without passport and visa. The bigger question, which has now emerged, is whether our country which is known to be the father of democracy in the World, would act in the reciprocal way that whether the Myanmarese will be allowed in India and privileged them to visit the sacred shrine through Manipur.

If Indian Government fail to comply, than the "Look East" policy may remain just a cosmetic policy meant for a short duration only. If the policy or schemes is drawn in Delhi and put in down in Manipur in the ready-made system, it may be a failure in the wrong run. The writers could be from Delhi and the actors are unavoidably Manipuris.

Government should study it seriously and there should be free entry and exit system too. When we visit Myanmar with a simple identity card and at the same time if our side imposes heavy rules and regulation to their visitors than the policy may appear fishy and the so called "Look East" may remain another hollow and false promise.


Rajkumar Shivachandra is the President of Indo Myanmar Fraternal Alliance and writes regularly to e-pao.net
He can be reached at [email protected]
This article was webcasted on July 06th , 2005.


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