TODAY -

E-Pao! Opinion - The lost and found Jews in Manipur and Mizoram.

Looking Eastward
A Glimpse of Yunan Province

By: R. K.Shivachandra *



Traveling into Myanmar is akin to a journey to the past. For the Manipuris it is rather a journey through the pages of history. Right from Khampat down the river stream of Chin Win that Manipuris called Ningthi Turel, has all embedded with the unforgettable histories of Manipur. The Mighty River that flows 15 miles per hour will reveal a lot of tales as you cruise down the river. Sometimes when the twilight sank into darkness and spread over the river you would soon lost yourself at thought thinking how our forefathers had forayed here.

As you set foot in Mandalay you will be welcomed by the hospitable Manipuris and there begins to unfold chapters of the history. The Mieties in Yangon who stood the test of time for centuries have something to tell you too. For all these reasons visiting Myanmar is much more than a tourist. Yes so many memories to capture in the brain and interaction to be made eyeball to eyeball with the people who migrated to Myanmar and bade adieu to their loving motherland some 300 years ago long time down to the memory lane.

As the India and Myanmar’s bilateral relationship ties further, Myanmar welcomed tourist of Indian origin to enter Myanmar by land route via Imphal from the Indian side. The Myanmar Hotel and Tourism is willing to waive-off passport and visa formalities for Indians. The tour cost offered by the Myanmar Hotel and Tourism is comparatively low. Their response is congenial, co-operative and hospitable.

Their goodwill gesture is a nice indication and a perfect sign, asking to begin a long journey of friendship with their immediate neighbor that India should reciprocate to The river cruise travel from Kaliwa to Monywa is not available this time for the water level is too low. Local know two different Chin Win rivers-the gentle friend of the dry season and unpredictable bully of the rainy seasons. The river is too shallow this time and captain of the Streamer hard to find a navigable route in the River. So the new road leading to Monywa linked by a new bridge across the Mitha River is now the diversion. The ASEAN car rally too passed through this road.

After two nights halt and a brief sight seeing in Mandalay, we were heading for Muse. On the way to Muse, we have enjoyed variety of diverse attractions based on unspoilt natural beauty, cultural heritage and charming landscapes. It has a striking resemblance to the Countryside of Manipur. The thatched house which was built in a similar pattern as seen in Manipur and bullock cart that is still in active and used by the farmers in Shan State are never seen in other parts of Myanmar.

Definitely Shan State will amply provide the clues leading to the genesis of the Mieties. Historian, intellectual circle who have interest in research work in South East Asia’s Chapter will have more to say if they personally explore the land and people out here.

The priceless and most worth seeing sight for the team had been to witness the traditional deities of Shan State. Amidst the thick wood shrine dwell the god and goddess in the idol form in a humble abode. TAI race in Shan worshiped the god when they first come out of their respective home and return.

The white horse and tiger that was sculpted in front of the temple had been co-related to the classic song of Manipur sung during Lai haraoba “ Ningthourelgee Sagoldee Mameina Ge ge laobani Angouba sagol tongbara”. The white horse that is referring to the song should have certain co-relation with the horse standing in front of Shan temple today. So also the tiger does to the Goddess Panthoibee.

When my pen try to bring down the memories and scene of the Shan State on the paper, sometimes I am afraid to comment on the much complicated Meitei issues which is always trailed after by disputes in any matter whatsoever. The origin and migration chapter of the Mieties is as vast as the Sea. A person like me with limited knowledge in history may not be proper to give authoritative comment.

I am trying to present an eyewitness account for it is said that ‘seeing is believing’. However I may also appeal to the scholars in Manipur who use to write big volumes on the genesis of the meites, to personally verify the places in Shan State as it is not that far off from Manipur. I do confident that will be another discovery for our scholars.

Nothing could have been more loss than to have missed the Shan Chief in Supo the capital of Shan Empire while returning to Mandalay from Muse. Fortunately we could have visited the Shan Palace in Supo. It was heart-rending moment hearing the ‘tales of woes’ of the last nephew to the Shan Prince. He had his early education in Darjling at ‘North Point School’ in India, and has an excellent command over the English language.

“The whole of the South East Asia is Shan”, he thundered before us. Meites who are known as Kaase or kaate by the Burmese is corrupt form but should be pronounced as Ka-Taai. According to him Ka- Taai means “The broken group of TAI”. He said more than 35 million Shans are in Yunan and they are known as DAIS slightly different in pronunciation from TAIS in the same way THAIS in Thailand.

Muse, the lush hill of Shan State has much to offer as a city in itself. Many traders from Naphalong came up here for marketing and resold it in Naphalong, making good profit. A better choice in the item of goods may be advised. The business section had much to explore here. A brief two days sight seeing may not serve any business purpose. Myanmarese always described Muse to be the dazzling diamond on the lofty height.

The border market offers variety of goods ranging from household materials to sophisticated electronics items. The best offer being that once we procure the items we may entrust the transport agencies so as to reach the consignment within a couple of days or so to Tammu. The Meiteis in Yangon whose profession are mostly transporters can take a major role in the advancement of trade in the North eastern states of India.

Meiteis who are in Yangon, Mandalay and other parts of Myanmar do actively involved in business and they can be high assets to us. A little amount of sincerity,however still needed in this venture too. Once the Manipuris in the two countries clicked together we can prove ourselves a economy power house in whole of the country than we may not bag from others again.

Standing on the borderline between China and Myanmar I was daydreaming for a while. The big market place in China side and other commercial sectors that spread as far as my eyes can touch-is something glamorous sight in itself. That was “Zegao” of Yunan province. Chinese dearly called it “Head of the Star”. Many skyscrapers building are seen being clustered in and around the commercial hub of the South East Asia. Prior to 1992 the area was utilized for agricultural purposes only but today every inch of the area are utilized meticulously and its land value are far costlier than any other big cities in the Indian side.

China and Myanmar carry out border trade activities through these two important points that’s Muse in Myanmar side and Zegao in Yunan province in China. And the truckload goods thereafter headed for their respective destination. People from far-flung places in Myanmar as well as from China are flocked together here to earn a fortune. Goods laden trucks are always seen on the road and this lasts till late in the night. The busy people of this commercial zone hardly sleep in the night and keep their business activities days in days out. Every minute seems to count here. “Many more palatial building will be coming up in the near future too”, said by one Chinese architect on the border with a smile.

This is Moreh now in Indian side. The dusty road and seemingly dulled people all around, has been the scene since the early 90s. Here goods laden trucks are not much to be seen. The border free trade which was officially inaugurated by the Indian Commerce Minister with the Myanmarese counterparts some years back have nothing much to be rejoiced about if the past three years are of any indication.

What is exactly functioning in Moreh? The United Bank of India (UBI) located at the border town to assist and boost free trade with our immediate neighbor Myanmar couldn’t facilitate money exchange facilities to the willing traders and entrepreneurs. The ‘weight bridge’ installed at the border point is not of use so it is just another ‘namesake’. Nothing is improving everything remained as it is. The meaning of free trade is still unknown to many only it does ‘bad’ to the pity business class.

Despite much prejudiced propaganda for Myanmar being a Military Junta ruled Country, we should not deny the fact that Tammu is fast developing when compared to Moreh in the India side. Who should the blame goes to? The supposed to be ‘commercial hub’ in the entire North East India, Moreh, is now at the verge of ruin. Much goods consignment, which should come via Imphal and Dimapur, has now got its way to Mizoram through Churchanpur.

“Business tycoon who earlier struck their deal in Moreh has now been shifted in Mizoram side”, said one Mizo women in Moreh. When business flourishes in Moreh the people of Manipur benefit it but the development is still a cry in the wilderness. Once the Champhai connection to Kalimyu Road is completed, the trade in Moreh side may tell another story.

Certain section of people/group camped in Moreh is madly after the easy money. Robbery and other forms of ransom have now becoming order of the day. The taxes imposed to the business society as well as to the vehicle owners by certain lawful and unlawful agencies becoming too heavy and unbearable. Police and other law enforcing agencies are of no exception. This has severely sapped the vitality of business to a degree. Instead of shaping up Moreh towards modern and advanced commercial hub for the North East India, we are hell bent to chop-off its possible avenues. It is really sad.

The inhabitants in and around Moreh can do lucrative business. Many of the people coming from outside the state have earned their fortune through this bottleneck hilly terrain earlier. Small cafeteria and restaurant in suitable location on the stretch of Imphal Moreh road could be an inviting gesture to many tourists and traders coming to Moreh.

The local residing by the roadside can always instill a sense of security and safety to the visitors. Sincerity is the magic spell that performs miracle. Kangpokpi in Manipur was once a major station for travelers heading for Dimapur and other destination in India. Many business establishments were active during those days but to day the charm is no longer exists for no one wish to stop their vehicle at kangpokpi for various obvious reasons. A big ‘why’ is the question? Yes many elements were of the view that ‘fast money’ collected from the traders is better than lasting prosperity of the people in Kangpokpi.

Opening of the Eastern Gate “NONGPOK THONG HAANGBA” may not possible without the contribution of the local masses. India is now gearing up to the ‘look East Policy’. Good or bed the local have a role to play in it. If we play our card well Manipur may be another economy locker in the entire North East Region. Most of the locals in Moreh are seemingly busy in fishing with a battery set on back rather than involving in business.

I don’t think it is a good sign. Local in Karkavita in the India Nepal border hardly find time either for fishing or picnic. Why most of the Manipuris who are privileged to have resided in Moreh are more interested in fishing than business is something left one to wonder. The Nongpok Thong may be opened someday as the Meitei scripture says. But the door may perhaps belong to someone else out of sheer ignorance on the part of Manipuris. Bihar has largest number of transport vehicles and Railways links passing through it but not sign of prosperity. This shouldn’t happen in Manipur when the trans Asian highway finds its way through Manipur.

We need to work together painstakingly to transform Moreh into a better place to live in so that business flourishes and people largely benefit out of it. To translate it into realities we need to work sincerely and enthusiastically with a positive mindset, free from the world of taxes hence giving business a chance. I hope somebody is hearing.


Rajkumar Shivachandra is the President of Indo Myanmar Fraternal Alliance and writes regularly to e-pao.net
He can be reached at [email protected]
This article was webcasted on April 22nd , 2005.


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