Sun Temple, floodlit

S Balakrishnan *

Sun Temple, floodlit

I am enamoured of this edifice – the Sun Temple at Konark in Kalinga of the yore (Orissa in the recent past and Odisha in the present). Even in ruins it is so enormous and enchanting that no other temple can compete with it, not even the Big Temple of Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu (where I hail from), nor the tomb that is Taj Mahal which is praised as one of the Wonders of the World.

My first trip to Konark was in November 1980, a few months after joining duty in Cuttack, the erstwhile capital of Orissa and which is hailed as the cultural capital also, and after a visit to Taj Mahal.

This was possible, thanks to my friend Sundaram who was the Admn. Officer at Central Institute for Research on Goats (CIRG), Makhdum, Farah, Mathura; the Institute was earlier named CGRI – Central Goat Research Institute.

The Sun Temple had been floodlit by then itself but I used my small camera for clicking the night shots which did not turn out as expected. So the next mission was in February 1983, specially meant for capturing the floodlit view of my favourite Sun Temple.

But there was no power and I could not afford to stay for another day. My budget did not allow that. Expecting it to come any moment, I hurriedly finished my supper (of 6 rotis Rs. 2.40, matar-paneer gravy Rs. 4.50 and an omelet Rs.3.50 = Rs.10.40 in all) at Orissa Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC)’s Pantha Nivas where I was staying.

Guess how much was the room rent … from 12 Noon to 12 Noon, Rs.30/- for single occupancy. Well, the rates might look damn cheap now but central government salary was a pittance 40 years back; even a beggar would have earned more, I am sure.

At last the bulbs blinked at 8 PM and I immediately rushed to the monument. I did not have any sophisticated camera or accessories, but only a Yashica Electro 35. So I clicked just four shots using auto mode and ‘B’ (Bulb) mode, while savouring the magnificent night view inch by inch.

Sound & Light show setup : Sun Temple, floodlit

In those days the monument gate was closed at sunset; however, one could view the floodlit scene from atop its broad compound wall. I walked all around the monument on this wall, though it was really scary as there were hardly any visitors. Unlike these days, this monument was a deserted one compared to the rush of visitors at Taj Mahal.

By 9 PM the flood lights were switched off one by one from different angles and it gave a dramatic look to the Black Pagoda. Then it was all darkness and silence … an eerie silence. Needless to say, I rushed back panting to Pantha Nivas, just opposite the eastern entrance of the Temple. There were concerns that the flood light could affect the structure.

Dinner at OTDC 6 rotis (2.40) paneer-muttar curry (cheese-peas)
(4.50)+ omelet (3.50)

A revisit in January 2018 (after 35 years) to view the floodlit Sun Temple was a complete contrast. Tourists were swarming the Temple, day and night. And the monument was open even after sunset for a sound & light show.

Once a sleepy hamlet, Konark had undergone complete makeover; crass commercial tourism had overtaken the eerie silence of the place. If I had a time machine I would go back to the 1980s Konark that had no pretence of a world monument; just a peaceful and beautiful hamlet carrying on the mundane affairs.