Moreh and Yongchak
- Part 1 -

S Balakrishnan *

A young woman selling Yongchak at B'pur bazar :: Pix - Hueiyen Lanpao

It was omnipresent, this bean-like thing! In and around the landmark Ima Keithal (Mothers' Market) in Imphal, this stuff was being stacked and sold by hundreds of wholesalers and retailers. 'Maybe it has got something to do with Yaoshang celebrations the next day … … for decorative purpose, like we in Tamil Nadu use mango leaves and palm fronds as festoons', we guessed among ourselves.

Concluding thus we gave no further thought to it but it was intriguing to see that ubiquitous stuff. Our Guide, Krishna, was not around with us; he dropped us near Ima Market and fled away. Maybe he imagined that the shopping Gopikas would swarm him!

The next day we were immersed in the Dol Jathra celebrations at Govindajee Mandir. The day after, as we were proceeding towards Moreh, the bean-like thing caught our attention again. 'Yongchak, that is what it is called', explained Krishna. 'Its literal meaning is monkey rice', he laughed.

'Manipuris make many dishes out of it; I love the chutney in particular, it is very tasty', he added. 'Andy very spicy also!' we said in chorus. Krishna chuckled and I could see him smacking his lips. As if testimony to his explanation, we noticed vehicles returning from Moreh fully loaded with yongchak – the dicky, back seat, under the seat, the top and on the lap – the vehicles were literally overflowing with yongchak!

'Why should people take so much trouble bringing yongchak all the way from Moreh?' we probed Krishna. 'It is much cheaper in Moreh market and the variety growing there is also tastier; moreover, it is end of the season, so people are mad to buy as much as possible and preserve it in all possible ways and forms', he added.

Then and there we decided and struck a million Kyat (Myanmar currency) deal with Krishna for easy & quick money – to load our vehicle with Yongchak on the return trip, even on our laps, and sell it at a higher rate in Imphal. We could easily become a millionaire in Kyat currency because 100 INR = 1200 Kyats! This would happen within a blink, we dreamt, and hoped to have a gala time in Manipur. Easy come, easy go, why bother! But do day dreams come true?

In the meantime, we had crossed the Muslim-populated areas of Thoubal District. The Manipuri Muslims are called as Pangals (Meitei Muslims). It seems they converted to Islam in early 1600. Thoubal District is also the constituency of the present Chief Minister, Mr. Okram Ibobi Singh, information was forthcoming from Krishna who also pointed out to the CM's personal residence which was right on the highway.

The Naka Theng collection drive also thinned out as we passed through Thoubal and then, as we approached the hill districts, it was nil. No more Naka Theng barriers, Krishna declared and we heaved a happy sigh of relief. We could move fast and reach Moreh on time, we beamed.

As an indication of the Christian Naga populated areas, we spotted the steeples of churches as we passed through the hill district of Chandel. While on the move, we clicked the followers coming out after Good Friday mass. That was the only photo of the Naga community of Manipur we could click.

The paper work for the border crossing of the vehicle along with the passengers went off smoothly at Moreh, maybe due to Krishna's frequent trips there. It was a simple pass with names of passengers, age, sex, place, vehicle regn. no., vehicle type and driver's name. The temporary pass was for the period from 7 AM to 4 PM only.

We straight away went towards Tamu (also called Namphalong), the Myanmar town. Krishna pointed to a bridge over a river, painted in two colours – grey & yellow; the middle portion was the Indo-Myanmar border. The second half, the yellow portion of the bridge, belonged to Myanmar, he said.

As I was searching Google for the name of the border river, I came across an interesting fact of how this river came to be the border of the erstwhile Kingdom of Manipur and Burma (now Myanmar). The river is known as Chindwin on the other side and as Ningthee in Manipur.

"Gambir Singh and Nara Singh had recaptured the Kabaw Valley and Gambir Singh hoisted the Manipur flag on the banks of Ningthee River and declared it as Manipur border, sometime between 30 Dec. 1825 and 2 Jan. 1826 or around the first week of Feb. 1826…" And this is Gambir Singh's famous declaration: "I have recaptured the lost territory of Manipur and henceforth our boundary will be up to the Ningthee River …" (Courtesy: The Endless Kabaw Valley: British Created Vicious Cycle of Manipur, Burma & India … book By Dr. Th. Suresh Singh)

Once we crossed the bridge and entered Myanmar, we became Rightists from Leftists! Had we shifted our political stand within a second? No, the road rule in Myanmar for vehicles is "Keep Right". Krishna felt uneasy sticking to the right side. I wonder if this 'Keep Right' rule was introduced by the military regime of Myanmar to prove themselves to be right.

Needless to say, India's Border Roads Organisation (80 RCC) of GREF (General Reserve Engineering Force) had constructed & is maintaining the India-Myanmar Friendship Road, now called Asian Highway-1 (AH1). Now I can proudly claim to have travelled on International Highway also, besides National Highway and State Highway.

We visited a Buddhist Monastery in Tamu and returned to the bridge to take a few snaps exactly on the dividing line of the bridge as well as the border. Look out for a separate article on our trip inside Myanmar. "Oh, my Ghosh! One more article @#%&!'' Please, do not curse me. From the point of bridge, Tamu Town is 1.7 miles.

A signboard there gives out the distance of six places inside Myanmar, all in miles, the farthest being Kalewa – 94 miles. While crossing the bridge, I could not help remembering the popular film 'The bridge on the river Kwai' which is, in fact, based on a novel that has as its background the railway track laying business by the British in Burma.

Part – II : In Moreh

Moreh & Hooray! At last I heaved a big sigh of relief. Moreh, my LTC destination, & Myanmar, my international border crossing destination, have both been realised! I was happy without realising then the difficulties I would have to face later in claiming the LTC bill.

There were umpteen questions from our PAO (Pay & Accounts Office) and umpteen doubts to be clarified – why travel by private vehicle to Moreh? No public transport to Moreh – no train (!) and no state transport bus at all? Not even private buses? If NO, what is the per KM rate for private vehicles as approved by Transport Dept. of Manipur Govt.?

If no such approved rate prevails, is the lump sum charged standardized & approved by Tourism Dept.? Is the tourism operator an approved and registered operator? So on and so forth with lots of ifs and buts.

Having comeback to Chennai, what the hell could I do other than banging my head? At the most I could only send e-mails to Tourism Dept. and my tour operator, begging for all these details. I was hoping to steal the required info from the Transport Dept. website but they do not have any website at all.

(to be contd)