Manipur, the land & the people

S Balakrishnan *

Aerial view of Koirengei area seen during Manipur Sangai Festival on 27th November 2015 :: Pix - Shankar Khangembam

"Will you shut up your foul mouth?" My co-passenger, occupying the plane's window seat, yelled at me as I craned my neck to peep through the window and gasp at the landscape. I could not help it; the landscape of Manipur was entirely different from what I had imagined it would be. As the plane was circling above the Bir Tikendrajit International Airport of Imphal for a smooth landing (of course, with a few thuds), what I saw was a vast plain.

I could see hills only at a far off distance in the background, whereas I thought Manipur would be as mountainous as Sikkim. Wow! I also noticed tiny, tiny islands of grass patches spread on a vast waterbed which I guessed could be the Loktak Lake, our dream destination and first stop.

In Sikkim, where I had lived long back, it is just unimaginable to find such a vast plain landscape, because it is spread right on the lap of Mt. Khangchendzonga, world's third highest peak. Assam, from where we were just flying in to Manipur, too presented a completely different picture. The Kaziranga Park was spread touching the horizon – such a vast plain landscape! And then the mighty Brahmaputra River with its unnoticeable other bank! I was so enthralled by the sight of the river with so much of water.

In fact, I was told that it was the lean season; it would be ferocious during monsoon. For a person coming from Tamil Nadu where the so-called rivers are rain-fed or dependent on the neighbouring states' mercy, River Brahmaputra was an eyeful of sight! I shamelessly admit that I was 100% jealous and envious and what not.

So I could not help gasping like a fish at the unimagined and varied landscape of Manipur. And my co-passenger was right about my foul mouth; I had a decaying tooth. But what can I do? I am so scared of the dentist that I try to contain it by repeated gargling with scented mouthwash.

Admonished by the co-passenger, I leaned back in my seat and tried to see through the other side window. But the danger was that a pretty lady was sitting there and she could mistake me for ogling at her, an old man at that! It is okay if I were a handsome lad, but alas!

I do not know if it is good to visit a place learning as much as possible before hand about it, as the Western tourists do, or just visit the place with a bare minimum information and be pleasantly surprised and shocked. Rather, too much knowledge could rob the thrill out of the trip, is my policy. Therefore, the six-day trip was as much a learning experience as it was a pleasure trip.

Like anyone outside Manipur, I had heard about polo being born in Manipur; I had seen the image of Kanglasha (in lottery ticket ads in those days when it was a craze in Tamil Nadu and hence completely banned) and mistook it to be a mythical dog, but it turned out to be a mythical dragon! Of course, everyone knows that the graceful classical dance of Lord Krishna's Raas Leela belongs to Manipur.

I do have an India Postage stamp of Raas Leela in my philatelic collection. Yes, a hearsay of Ima Keithel (the all-women market) and Loktak Lake with its floating islands and population. Surely about Netaji's INA crossing over to reach Moirang and hoisting the Indian tricolour! As I completed my trip to Manipur, it turned out that I belonged to the second type. Well, I never regretted it; there was so much of surprise in store. Indeed, little ignorance was bliss. Stupidity leads to surprises!

The vast plain landscape, oval in shape, I later learnt, is known as the Manipur valley. It is comprised of four districts – Bishnupur, Imphal East & West, and Thoubal – surrounded by the other five hill districts, namely, Senapati, Tamenglong, Churachandpur, Chandel and Ukhrul. The valley, with a population density of over 630 persons per square kilometre (as per 2001 census), has tremendous pressure on land and water resources.

More than 60% of the state's population inhabits the 2238 square kilometre valley (equivalent to only 10% of state's geographical area). It is mostly populated by Meiteis who are Hindus (Vaishnavaites) and also by Meitei Pangals, the Manipuri Muslims. The hill districts are populated by Nagas and Kukis. Due to shortage of time, we could not visit the Naga and Kuki areas, which I regret very much.

We found out that overall, the Manipuris are quite a friendly lot. They shared their feelings so openly; their genuine outpouring about corruption in the administration was very disturbing, especially when Manipur is a small State. This was once so in Sikkim also, but now I think it has crossed over that hurdle and is becoming a fast-developing State. An organic State at that!

There was general disbelief that we made a definite choice to visit Manipur. "Why Manipur?! What is there to see in Manipur? And all the way from Chennai!" was the surprised and repeated query. There was even a discreet discouragement by the security people as we waited for security check on our way to Moreh. I am damn sure that Manipur, literally meaning "A jewelled land", has so much to offer to a tourist, especially to a wayward tourist like me.

We were wondering why nobody even mentioned about Irom Sharmila even once during our six days of stay. Is it fear of the security regulations or something else, I am not able to figure out. Anyhow, I am glad that she at last gave up her fasting (I can't dream of living without water just for half a day even) to fight in the political arena. I wish her all the success in her fight for people's cause!

I am not going to get into the nitty-gritty of the various issues presently plaguing Manipur, like the Inner Line Permit agitation, fight against AFSPA, the voice of Meiteis for SC status and the consequent opposing agitation by Hill districts people, the feelings of Meitei Pangals, etc. But all I wish is that in a small and beautiful state like Manipur, all these internal problems should be resolved amicably at the earliest so that Manipur extends a warm welcome to tourists – with both the hands.

How ignorant I was about the North-Eastern States, I realized only during my visit to Assam & Manipur. Not only about the geography, but also about all other aspects; to put it simply, the lifestyle of the people. There was much more left to be explored in these two States alone, not to mention about the other NE States. So allow more people to visit and understand the NE area.

Remember, it is a win-win situation for both. But too much of commercial tourism is also not good; so it should be carefully monitored and regulated so as not to spoil the environment and the culture & tradition of the local people.

Some images of Manipur will forever remain etched in my memory –
boys and dudes wearing ear ring and looking really cute;
the twinkling Loktak Lake during day and night,
the peaceful and pollution-free Sendra Island and
our first free chitchat with a Manipuri woman, Premlata (Devi) Leima, there;
distant sighting of the mystic Sangai, the dancing deer;
salute to Netaji and the INA fighters at Moirang,
the search and finding of the old—world Temple in Bishnupur,
our hunt for Manipuri handicrafts,
the hustle-bustle of the most colourful Ima Keithel on Yaoshang occasion,
the huffing & puffing climb up to the enchanting Sadu Chiru Waterfall,
the stroll in the historical Kangla Fort;
visit to the pre-Hindu Sanamahism Temple and a real feel of Kanglasha at the Fort complex;
the religious fervour of Dol Jatra at Lord Govindajee Temple on Yaoshang (Holi) day and
the connected cultural & sports activities organized by the local clubs all around;
the Naka Theng fund collection drive;
the only photo of Naga Christians coming out of the church after Good Friday mass and
sighting of their peaceful villages on way to Moreh;
the experience of crossing over to Tamu in Myanmar,
meeting the Tamil population in Moreh;
Dol Jatra festivities at Kakching MLA's house; and,
last but not the least (can't help the cliché), the helpful Krishna Kant Sharma who was forced by the circumstances to be our guide during the trip.

Above all, the warmth of the Manipuris! The photos and the videos shot during our trip will be a treasured memory for us forever.

On reading the series of my articles on Magical Manipur- so to say 'a Madrasi's views on Manipur'- in The Sangai Express, many Manipuris sent me bouquets through e-mail; they warmly shared their personal / family photos and additional inputs to enlighten me about the culture, tradition, customs and history of Manipur. I am really touched by their interaction and I owe them my heartfelt gratitude. I desist mentioning their names for want of space and for reasons of privacy.

Well, aren't you curious to know who the co-passenger was? Who else could dare to yell at me in public other than my be(i)tter-half! For your information, she too has a 'teething' problem in one of her teeth; so I was wise enough not to indulge in a mid-air quarrel that could foul the whole atmosphere inside the plane!

With this Swan Song write-up on our trip to Manipur in March 2016, I wish to thank the readers who enjoyed (?) reading my articles and provided valuable feedback. Of course, I might be writing on other topics now & then which, I hope, you continue to 'enjoy' reading.

Chat charage (Good bye) & Hainingai Leitana Thagatchari (Thank you very much). Ei Chennai dagi nee (I am from Chennai) but Ei Manipur nungshi (I love Manipur), Manipur phajei (Manipur is beautiful)!