Lal Market of Gangtok

S Balakrishnan *

The Lal Market complex in Gangtok is the quintessence of Sikkim. Visiting it after 26 years I was both excited and nervous; will it be the same Lal Bazar that I saw last in 1988, I was stupidly wondering. When we drew the Sikkim itinerary I was adamant that we visit Lal Market on a Sunday morning when it would be hyperactive.

In my eagerness we arrived there a bit too early when the villagers were just descending with their produce and the shutters were being opened and the wares spread. I nearly had a heart attack by the new avtar of Lal Market; my wife magically prevented it by just uttering, "The only thing that is constant is change".

Later I realised that these were words of Greek philosopher Heraclitus (around 500 BC). What forethought! Whereas the market was almost a shanty then, it now stood as a five-storied complex named Kanchanjunga Shopping Plaza with even rooftop space for trade fairs!

Once an open-to-the-sky street bazaar, Lal Market was built in 1956 (it is as young as I am, hence the attachment) and was named after J Lal, a Dewan of Chogyal (King) of Sikkim. As a bachelor with not much scope for entertainment in 1983-88 period (no TV, not to speak of internet and mobile), my only scope for IEE (Information, Education & Entertainment) was Lal Market.

The ever fascinating Lal Market was more interesting on Sunday forenoons when villagers from near & far Gangtok would arrive in their colourful traditional attire to sell and buy.

I would admire the big ear studs, nose rings, coin necklaces of the Limbu women, Lepcha men wearing ear ornaments, and the coral ornaments of Bhutias, Lepchas and Tibetans; while the Lamas would joyfully move around in their flowing red/yellow uniform, the Jawans, in contrast, would throng the market on their weekly off in their crisp camouflage, olive green, khaki uniform ... such a diversity of people! Added to this were people from various States living in Gangtok, the majority being Bengalis, on Sunday shopping spree.

Equally amazing was the diversity of products on sale -locally grown vegetables, fruits, churpi (Yak cheese), butter, homemade incense sticks & noodles, dress, puja items, etc. The market then had a good number of shops selling seconds clothes/warm clothing. I befriended 'Nima' ('Sun' in Tibetan, he told me) proprietor of a clothes shop that functioned from a pucca building at the end of market.

Another attraction for me was that I could eavesdrop people speaking my mother tongue Tamil; in my initial years I practically had no Tamil friend and I feared I would lose touch of my mother tongue! So I would promptly visit Lal Market almost on all Sunday mornings and also whenever I felt like visiting it.

My favourite haunt was the few shops selling knickknacks and puja items. Mad of curios and antiques, I earmarked little amount every month out of the pitiable salary and thus bought
Zibse [1] 5 (red string with tiny metal rings in it for tying in rosaries),
aluminum offering bowls [1] 18, Nepali topi(cap) [1] 18, rosary [1] 20,
two Tibetan coins [1] 20, tiny 'khukri' (Nepali dagger)-shaped tie/topi pin [1] 8,
brass Dorjee (thunder bolt/ vajra) [1] 40,
brass Bhooti (circular pendant with Tibetan zodiac signs) ' 10,
Dragon ashtray [1] 20, Tibetan Opera song Tanzgrupee cassette [1] 35,
Prayer flag set - small [1] 4, streaming prayer flag [1] 2/yard(gaj),
brass butter lamps - pair [1] 8, Ztree (dagger of Bhutia tribe) [1] 45,
Zubong kolo (Kala chakra plaque) [1] 70,
brass Dubla thatho kabu ('mask' pendant) [1] 50,
Purba vajra (wrought iron) [1] 30, Iglung (belt buckle of Lepcha tribe) [1] 5,
iron Snow Lion candle stand [1] 55.

Looking back I feel proud of this unique collection of tiny items bought with enormous planning and sacrifice.

Alas, I missed these shops at the new Plaza! We bought only the soft white churpi (yak cheese) that had turned hard by the time we reached Chennai. My colleagues were not ready even to taste it-Yak cheese? Yuk ! They evaded and avoided me.

Whereas the old Lal Market had around 100 petty shops, Khangchendzonga Plaza has five times more shops, I believe. Every available space was marked and numbered and fully occupied on that Sunday. The variety was also incomparable what with modern gadgets and other lifestyle items.

We had a thoroughly enjoyable shooting spree, though one Bhutia lady vendor was averse to being clicked; maybe she thought her life span would decrease. A Nepali vendor and my daughter had chitchat about their respective big ear ornament. We could not spend more than an hour as we were to visit Rumtek Monastery. Too hectic a schedule robbed the pleasure of leisurely visits.

I must be the odd person to pen a paean about a market. But the Lai Market of Gangtok is a must visit spot on Sunday morning; I would rate it as interesting and photogenic as the Ima Keithal (Mothers' Market) of Imphal, Manipur, and the weekly market in Pallavaram, Chennai.