In the Kingdom of Nepal in 1986

S Balakrishnan *

Kathmandu, Nepal in May 2012 :: Pix - Wikipedia/Royonx

Though I had a desire to visit the Kingdom of Nepal since May 1983 when I came to Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, on transfer from Cuttack in Orissa (now Odisha), I was not able to fulfil it for various reasons. Well, to be frank, the first and foremost thing was dough; I wanted to have a decent amount on hand, if not to splash at least to decently live off during the trip.

Also, I wanted to pick up a fair knowledge of Nepali language so that I, a South Indian, could impress the Nepalis; this skill could also help me in bargaining, I schemed. It was also important to gather some basic idea about the trip and the place. With these considerations, the idea was slowly hatching.

The visit of my friends from Pond's company to Kathmandu during the 1985 Dasain Holidays added fuel to my burning desire. The Nepalis call Durga Puja as Dasain as the festivities go on for 'das' (ten) full days. Pond's Talcum Powder Company had a basic talcum powder grinding unit in Sikkim and almost 90% of the staff members were from my native Tamil Nadu State in South India; naturally, I was in friendly terms with them. Their hints & tips helped me a lot. But the trip itself was so sudden. And that made it that much more interesting.

So it was in January 1986 that the trip was fixed; having used to Gangtok's winter, I knew Kathmandu's winter would not be that severe. Whereas Gangtok's altitude is 1,650 m (5,410 ft), Kathmandu is at 1,400 metres (4,600 ft). Not only a difference of 810 ft but also a complete variance of their positioning. Whereas Kathmandu is in a Valley, Gangtok is on hill top.

The name Gangtok literally means 'On top of the Ridge'; 'tok' in Tiebtan is 'on top of'. My reasoning for choosing peak winter was there would be less crowd, fearing the severe winter. Further, it was not a vacation season. I really hate crowds, especially the maddening, pompous tourist crowds. However, foreigners were in good numbers, probably escaping the severe winter of their own countries! I couldn't help it.

During my trip, for every Indian Rupee I got in exchange 1.70 Nepal Rupee, nearly double! That is what you call double dhamaka! Who had heard of a digital camera then! So it was the analog type, the film roll camera Yashica Electro-35; hence I must admit I was a bit choosy and too 'stingy' in clicking which I 'generously' regret now. It is always the same with me – either I act in haste and regret in leisure or act leisurely and regret hastily.

Sat Jan. 04, 1986 – At Kakarabita, the starting Point:

At last my historic trip to Nepal began on Saturday the 4th January 1986, after the New Year tourist crowds would have evaporated from Nepal. Though people generally consider Saturday an inauspicious day, I never believe in such things. In fact, Saturday is an auspicious day for worshipping Lord Narayana, the Vaishnavaite God. So I took off from Gangtok on a Saturday and reached Siliguri around noon, the fare being Rs 19.50.

I am not sure if I came down by 7 AM or 9 AM bus; in those days it almost took 5 hours to cover this 115 km distance, hence I must have boarded the 7 AM bus only. To prevent road sickness & nasty vomiting, I was almost on empty stomach and had also swallowed two Avomin tabs; besides, during the bus journey, I was now & then chewing four Vitamin C tablets; these tablets, 4 each, cost Rs. 2+2.

On landing in Siliguri, being hungry, I rushed to the Madras Hotel attracted by the name, but it was a lousy South Indian fare for 7 rupees. Paid Rs. 90 and bought the ticket from New Kankai Yatayat Sewa, which included travel from Siliguri to Kakarvita, a 35 km.-distance reached after an hour's jeep travel.

There I had the shock of my life. Central Govt. Servants can cross the border only with permission from the superiors, threatened a bill board. I indeed was a Central Govt. staff but did not know this rule beforehand. Hope they do not punish me 30 years after my trip! Now that I am jolly well retired and into six months of pensioner's life, I am brave enough to declare my trip officially! But not knowing the rule is not an excuse, it is said. But then getting such a permission would have been a Himalayan task in those days of snail mail (post); from my office in Gangtok to Regional Office in Calcutta {now Kolkata}, from there to our HQ in New Delhi and vice versa … I would be dead by then!

The Indian border ends on this side of Mechi River. There is an Indian Customs Check Post here. Unaware of that I had crossed the border without declaring my camera {Yashica Electro 35}. I was probably caught at the Nepal border by the counterpart Customs Dept. So I had to hire a cycle rickshaw and come back here. It was an extra expenditure of 2 rupees for the trip from Kakarabita to Indian Customs Check post over the Meichi Bridge. It was with some difficulty that I could convince them. The ticket came to my rescue.

The word 'Press' in my office name 'Press Information Bureau, Government of India' also came to my help as they mistook me to be a Press Photographer. Though I had been cursing myself for joining PIB, at last it came handy on a foreign soil; well, just across the border, though.

With enough time on hand for boarding the bus, I roamed a bit at KKB (also spelt as Kankadbhitta, as in the maps). Ate 'momok' {the 'k' is silent, but I could not keep silent but pay 5 Nepali Rupees for momok} and had a cup of tea – 1 'NR'(Nepali Rupee). One can find a good number of small lodges here. Met two guys from Bangalore {now Bengaluru}, who also travelled by the same bus.

I stocked two biscuit packets for 7.50 NR. The bus started at 6 PM sharp. Reached Itahari, 85 kms., at 9 PM where I had dinner for 7 NR {no details about the menu}. The bus was stopped en route many times and passengers & luggage checked, though luggage had already been checked at KKB by Nepal police. I heard the scrutiny had become more severe after the bomb blasts in Kathmandu, last year (1985).

Sunday, 5/1/'86: In Kathmandu, Sunday a briskly day:

The bus reached Central Bus Station, Kathmandu, by 10.30 AM on Sunday the 5th January 1986. As we were nearing Kathmandu, the rural scenery was so lovely and charming, especially the view of the vast valley and the snow-capped peaks at the background. The road was almost level, hence the journey pleasant and speedier but for the checking hold-ups. Thanks to the Avomin tablets, I did not throw up; my co-passengers must be really grateful to me for this!

I could not believe that I was actually on a foreign soil; my first ever foreign trip had materialized! And what an auspicious beginning – visiting the world's one and only Hindu Kingdom! The charismatic King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah, the 12th in the line, was ruling the Kingdom. He met a violent end in 2001 which was quite saddening. Immediately on alighting, the hotel agents swarmed us. We had no escape and so one of them bundled us into a Toyota taxi for which we paid the taxi fare ('we' means self and the two Kannadigas who also knew Tamil, my mother tongue).

We were ushered into Hotel New Anand in 'Lagan' area, run on lease by Kannadigas. How clever of the agent! By experience he had found out that we are South Indians and so he took us straight to a lodge run by a South Indian! I opted for the Rs. 70/- (Nepal Currency) per day, bath-attached single occupancy. With solar water heater on the terrace, steaming hot water was available from 12 noon till evening or till it lasted. The Hotel took an advance of NR 170. After French bath, we ventured out.

We ate lunch at OK Restaurant and I paid the bill for 37 NR. Maybe they paid the taxi fare hence it was my turn to foot the bill. They were very interested in seeing the Vishal Bhandar (Super Market). Remember, there were no malls back then, at least in the conservative South India; maybe the exception was the old-world Spencer's of Madras (now Chennai), India's oldest shopping plaza. This too was razed in a fire in 1983 and now a new Spencer's Plaza ogles at you from that place.

From there I took off alone. I really prefer this because I can see what I want to, click what I like, and all at my own pace. I am at my own disposal. First I went straight to the Tourism Centre, got a few folders, then bought maps in private shops, as these are not distributed by the Tourism Dept. and, with the help of these, started venturing out. The Nepal Road & Trekking Map cost 15 NR and the map of Kathmandu Valley & City 5 NR. I still preserve them. Maybe they will come handy when I visit Nepal again, if at all I get a chance!

I also bought a few postcards. One I wrote and posted to my parents back in Madras, just informing them that I had safely landed in Kathmandu from Sikkim and the weather was quite fine. This card I seized from them when I went on a holiday there, to add to my philatelic kitty.

Then the main business of exchanging Indian Currency of Rs. 300 for 510 Nepali Rupees was completed. Wow! But where exactly this transaction took place, I do not remember now. Maybe in a bank; I faintly remember a vast hall with pillars and counters in a semi-circular fashion. Or am I confusing the building with the main post office that I visited? I insisted on a variety of currency notes and some crisp notes to keep as memento of my visit to Nepal. They willingly obliged. Needless to say, I still have with me a few currency notes and some coins collected during that trip in my numismatic collection.

Went up to Singha Durbar, the Secretariat Building, a massive white structure. As they are a bit cautious about permitting visitors inside after the bomb blasts, I did not feel like going inside; further, except the building there was not much to see inside. On my way there, I saw Martyrs' Column and Bhadrakali Temple; and, on way back, I visited the Hemant Mela at 'Bhirkuti Mandap' (Nepal Exhibition Ground), organized on the occasion of the 41st birthday of V Maharajathiraj Sarkar, by the Nepal Family Planning Association.

Nothing in particular, not informative also, though the industrial development had been depicted. It had toy train, boating, gambling and eateries. Entrance fee was 1 NR. Then I went up to the Royal Palace gate. Plenty of curio shops and travel agencies lined the Durbar Marga. Took a photo of the Palace and then roamed a bit in the bazaar. The dinner at Bangalore Hotel was not good. Veg. pulao & tea for 6.50 NR. The hotels deceive you with South Indian names.

I met the Kannadigas on the way and the three of us returned to the lodge after buying John Bull Whisky bottles. 180 ml bottle cost NR 27! Remember, it was January; just in case I felt too cold and shivering. Back in the room, I wrote the day's accounts, travel diary and the picture post cards. Sunday is not the weekly holiday for the Kathmandu market; instead, it is Friday. So I enjoyed this briskly and sunny Sunday of Kathmandu. With my feet firmly in Nepal, I had a sound sleep dreaming about the days ahead in the Kingdom of Nepal.