In search of handicrafts

S Balakrishnan *

9th International Imphal Trade Fair 2013 at Hapta Kangjeibung in March 2013 :: Pix - Deepak Oinam

We are a much disappointed and sad lot after our Manipur sojourn because we could not buy Manipuri handicrafts to our heart's content, and because we could not enjoy 'shop till you drop'. The holiday for Yaoshang (Holi) had combined with Good Friday, Saturday and Easter Sunday thus prolonging it into a five-day-long one. From March 24 to 27, until our departure, it was a self-declared bandh for commercial establishments.

The first opportunity to see Manipuri handicrafts was at Bishnupur, on our way from Loktak to Imphal. The tourism website notes that "Bishnupur is also famous for its chiselled stoneware". I was thrilled, as I love stone and metal items; in fact I love all types of handicrafts but these varieties are more fascinating than the others. They will last forever, even after my departure from this 'materialistic' world, and continue to proclaim to the world that I was an art connoisseur.

Frankly, I do not want to pretend to be an art connoisseur, especially the hi-fi type, but I am just a simple, mad lover of handicrafts. I have a big heart to love and buy handicraft items with a thin & stingy purse. How unfortunate!

Therefore, it was natural that my wife took a promise from me in Chennai, even before we kicked off on our trip. I am using 'kicked off' not in its literal sense, believe me! The promise was that I would not go for costly items and that the total budget for handicrafts should not exceed, at the most, 3,000 rupees. I knew it was a paltry sum for both Assam and Manipur, but I nodded my head ambiguously, both sideways and up & down.

I very well knew that she would herself cross the budget limit when she succumbed to something really cute and worth. So I was not bothered but was ready with my credit/debit cards. We will see when the date for settling it comes, was my attitude. As if my wife's torture was not enough, my mother telephonically warned of any extravagant spending on such 'wasteful' things as there were more 'useful' and major expenditures on the waiting, like the weddings of our son and daughter. 'And, remember, you are about to retire', she practically threatened and killed the joy of shopping.

Fascinated by the information about chiselled stoneware, we started our hunt but found none. Then a shopkeeper enlightened us that that was ages ago. Now, only clay dolls were being made. Even these, he added, were not available as they had been packed off to Imphal for the Yaoshang (Holi) mela there. As a consolation prize, we could bag only miniature items in bamboo, like fishing trap baskets, pitcher, plates, winnowing pan, baskets, etc.

So small but perfectly woven and finished as if Lilliputian items had come alive! Very cute ones, I must admit. As there was power disruption (due to rain?), we could not thoroughly explore the inside of the shop. The rain also prevented us 'hop shopping' from one shop to another. Instead of stoneware, we settled for earthenware – a small clay pot and a clay smoking pipe (for cannabis, I wonder).

Taking this small shop as a cue, we were wondering what an amazing variety would be available in Imphal, the capital city. We were not aware that this would be our first and last handicraft shopping experience in the whole of Manipur! Blame the Yaoshang holidays!

Panthoibi, the State Government's handicrafts emporium, was closed for Yaoshang holidays throughout our stay. It was a consolation for us even to see its name board above the closed doors in Paona Bazaar. Every time we ventured out of our hotel or returned, we would press our guide, Mr. Krishna, to pass through Paona Bazaar, the commercial hub of Imphal, with a fond hope of finding Panthoibi or any other handicrafts shop open, but no luck at all.

Our mad hunt for handicrafts must have made Mr. Krishna eternally allergic to these three words – handicrafts, Panthoibi and Paona Bazaar! Even the phone number given in the tourism folder had changed. On our persistent dialing, someone at last picked it up on Saturday only to break the news that it (2451495) wasn't the number of Panthoibi Emporium but that of IDBI bank. I would love to loot Panthoibi, not IDBI.

Alas! Even the private handicrafts emporia listed in the tourism brochure were all closed. At least they could have opened for a half a day on Saturday forenoon; we were literally cursing them for not being money-minded and enterprising. If their attitude was so, why blame the Govt-pampered Panthoibi? They have not even bothered to change their phone number details in tourism info.

The famous all-women Ima Keithel (Mothers' Market) also belied our expectations. No curio, antique or handicraft shop, except a few selling clay items. Among this, the one that we regret having not bought is the pre-Hindu deity of Wealth. We did intend buying it, though mistaking it as an Ima seller, but were looking for a smaller, lighter version.

Ultimately, the Goddess of Wealth slipped out of our hands. However, we bought three little agarbathi stands of clay, so smooth and fine, for just ten rupees. Maybe we could use them to welcome the Goddess of Wealth as and when She decides to appear in our home. Sooner the better, but better late than never. I am surprised to learn that generally Manipur pottery is crafted without a potter's wheel, which is rare indeed.

Yes, there were dolls dressed up in local costume in Ima Market but their facial features were Western, resembling Barbie dolls, hence rejected by us in toto. We had no time to visit the Naga areas, though we t passed through them on our way to Moreh and back. So, as a tribute to the valiant Naga community of Manipur, we carried miniature models of two pairs of spears; instead, I would love to carry life-size ones.

A handcrafted lice comb (Rs. 50) was also added to our shopping basket at Ima Keithel. Thumb-sized grey clay bar with 'Hare Rama, Hare Krishna' embossed on it in Bengali script of Manipuri language is definitely a curio collection. I suppose this bar is used by Vaishanavite devotees for applying religious mark on their forehead.

More disappointment was at store for us at the stores on either side of the Indo-Myanmar border. The Moreh market on Indian side, described as a shopping paradise, had only all sorts of modern items whereas we had also expected Myanmar handicrafts.

I prefer and tend to use the old name of Burma which is easy on the tongue also; as they say old habits die hard, especially with an old man like me. The only solace was a black washing detergent square cake with Burmese 'inscription' for ten rupees! Now I can claim to have a foreign item from Burma, oops, Myanmar.

On the other side, in the Tamu town of Myanmar, we did pass by a few shops selling metal icons, etc., but Mr. Krishna, our guide, discouraged; he said language barrier was a big hurdle there. We had to submit to his advice with a sad face. But believe me, the exchange rate was much in our favour – 100 Indian rupees = 1200 Myanmar Kyats! So we satiated our hunger for handicrafts at the least by exchanging 200 Rupees for various denominations of Kyats, totalling to more than 2,400.

The Kyat currency notes have beautiful pictures depicting Myanmar art, culture, religion, lifestyle, etc. Indeed numismatic collectors' pride. Should I proudly declare that I am a humble one among them? In this respect, the Indian currency notes are a very poor cousin – dull & drab. Can't we compete at least in this sector?

So, with all other sources letting us down, we had to fall back on the boutique within the four-star Classic Grande hotel where we were put up. We were desisting buying there till the very last moment as the rates there would definitely be costlier. No pleasure of bargaining either. When you stay in a classic hotel like that you have to put on an air of being rich & classic, and avoid direct & cheap bargaining, right?

Thus we ended up buying a Kangla-sha (the mythical dragon which is also the State Emblem) and the coiled snake (a religious / royal symbol), both of wood, costing Rs. 480 each, and panega (attire worn by Manipuri women, waist-down) Rs. 850. My daughter wants to fashion a skirt out of it hoping that it would look gorgeous.

My wife was literally biting my ears to cut short buying there. It was just before checking out. We collected the items, stuffed them into our already bulging baggage and drove off straight to Tulihal airport. I admired their wonderful collection of items, particularly the polo player, Sangai deer, dolls in traditional costume, etc., but could we afford them all? Treating us as rare specimens or even aliens from down South India, I wish the hotel people had presented some lovely & costly items as mementos. Probably they did not have the presence of mind.

During our visit to Kangla Fort complex, I found a broken brick piece of the old times and was kicking it around. Then it struck me (not the stone, but an idea) that the broken piece could be of archaeological value. This is now sitting prettily in our showcase along with the meager handicrafts that we managed to buy in Manipur. A feather that I found in that vast complex is majestically stuck in it. I am not an ornithologist to identify which bird it belongs to but surely a free-spirited bird of Manipur. By the by, don't embarrass me by asking if I do collect feathers also.

I am yet to come to terms even a month after our return from Manipur, and yet to come out of the disappointment. The lovely Manipuri pair of Romeo-Juliet is comforting me. This was bought for Rs. 350 at the mela put up near Lord Govindajee Mandir on Yaoshang day without succeeding in haggling. But the delicately-made pair is worth it.

Though Manipur is the birth place of both polo and Raas Lila, we could neither watch them nor buy dolls representing these two. In the list of missed out items tops the Goddess of Wealth, one more Kangla-sha (I prefer a pair), Sangai deer, and the snake-boat. God knows what all we missed buying from Panthoibi and other emporia.

Don't we all love what comes free? It was a double dhamaka when we got two tourism posters from the Manipur Tourism Centre at Imphal international airport on our arrival. Two lovely posters of the Pung Cholom drum dance posture. A troupe from Manipur had performed this marvelous dance in Gangtok, Sikkim. The moves were so fast, vigorous and lively that I remember it to this day – 30 years after!

Two small trays made of the humble banana leaf are another collection from Manipur. They have turned into brown from green but still retain their shape. These were used to serve side dishes when we tried the traditional Manipur lunch. Echo-friendly and biodegradable natural trays. This reminds me of the 'dhonnai' of Tamil Nadu; these are shaped like bowls and made out of dried banana leaf joined by coconut palm leaf's middle stick pieces. Dhonnais are used for serving not only solid but also liquid edible items.

And no leakage either. How ingenious of our ancestors! This was much in demand before the appearance of paper/plastic cups. For better or worse, times are changing, you see.

Can we manage to visit Manipur again? Or when we visit the other N-E states (still five are left), we can steal some time to buy these items from Imphal. If we could afford we could straight away land in Imphal, shop until we drop, pack off and fly back to Chennai … but that is only if we could afford, which is next to impossible. Sigh! Better luck next time? Well, we need all the luck in the world for another visit to Manipur. That makes us more a disappointed & sad lot – back to square one!