TODAY -

Sunday & other days in Shanghai & Guangzhou
- Part 1 -

By R.E.Gonmei *

I'd been camping in Shanghai for nearly two weeks. I thot I'd be returning in a week's time, but cudn't finish my work. These Chinese are giving me headaches everyday. It's amazing how well they can mis-communicate things ... not that they do it on purpose. One has to keep explaining & re-explaining things ... in several different ways ...by writing, acting, drawing.... laughing ... screaming ... in short, everything at your disposal... hoping that somewhere, something will hit that button of understanding.

So, to convey an idea, it takes a decade ... & loads of p..a..t..i..e..n..c..e . You throw them a question & they'll get into an animated discussion & consultation amongst themselves ... in Mandarin (or in Cantonese ... as the case may be ...... meanwhile, u can go out for a cup of tea or coffee ... or just take a walk ... by the time u return, if u're lucky, they shud be ready with the answer to your query.

By the end of the day u'r exhausted ... tongue aching .... head pounding.... & u realize that u've covered 3 points out of 30 points u shud've covered that day. And after all that, they try to feed you all kinds of unpalatable Chinese food. This is not to say that all Chinese food are that way .... I had some greatly delicious authentic Chinese food as well. Then they keep 'pestering' u with "how 'bout some foot massage..... body massage ? ...relax ??" But I understand they're trying their best to make you feel good.

In between, I did find some time to visit a couple of hospitals here in Shanghai (all govt hospitals). Am mighty impressed by them. These Chinese don't fail to amaze me over & over again. They don't seem to have any space constraints .... apparently no cost constraints ... 'expensive' materials ... monumental quantities...... It's as if all these are regular stuff.

In India & our part of the world, it'd be considered architectural luxuries .... extravaganzas. Very good workmanship ... impeccable maintenance & housekeeping.... I think it's an attitude thing, a way of life .... atleast public life. Public property is very well-taken care of : Clean, wide, tree-lined streets with dedicated lanes for 2-wheelers & broad sidewalks ; sleek, multi-level fly-overs (their undersides gleaming in the reflected light of the streetlights below) ; pretty parks ; inter-city highways that are wider than airport runways (with impeccably manicured lawns on either sides, plantations & flower beds all along the median for miles together).

I'm sure u too have seen them all. Everything is done on a gigantic scale. They don't seem to know how to think small ... like we Indians (& many like us) think all the time. Rules are followed & discipline is enforced .

By the end of 2007, China will have completed all constructions relating to the August 2008 Olympics to be held in Beijing. It'll be the only country which wud've been fully prepared for such a big event a full six months ahead of time. Impressive achievement ...... & great showmanship ... by the government. The Olympics is such an important event for the people of China ...... more than 3500 babies have been given the name 'Olympic' !

Great infrastructure ... atleast in urban China. The majority of the common people, however, are still quite poor. But scenes of extreme poverty are not very common in the cities. China has an impressive track record in poverty alleviation. In the '70s, there were 250 million Chinese with an annual per capita income of < US $ 80/-.

Today, there are only 26 million Chinese living below their national poverty line. Compare this with 300 million Indians still living below poverty line even today (2007). Of course, India's poverty line is at US $ 90/- per annum. But both figures (China's as well as India's) are well below the internationally recognized line of US $ 112/- per capita per annum.

Last Sunday, I got to see a li'l bit of the city. Shanghai (meaning 'above the sea' or 'on-the-sea') wud easily rate as one of the most fascinating cities in the world (I wudn't not believe those who say that it's one of the 'best' cities to live in ...... not that I have lived in many other cities) ... character, tradition, modernity, history, scale, infrastructure, organization ... it seems to have everything.

Probably god had a hand in designing this city (or atleast his assistant must have). Of course, there are shanties in Shanghai too ... like every other city in the world. But u've to look for them ... unlike in Bombay where slums are a highly visible & integral component of the cityscape.

Nanjing Lu is a very popular pedestrian street (also known as China's Number One Street) where people go to (window) shop & hang out. It's also sometimes referred to as China's 'Fifth Avenue'. On sunday it was as though the whole city had converged on Nanjing Lu. But u'll not see too many folks buying things or carrying shopping bags.

Everyone is decked up in the most modern (western) attire .... especially young Chinese girls (they r an ultra-mod species; the boys are simpler). Everyone, young & old & the very young & the very old as well, is out there for a pleasure stroll & to just watch everyone else strolling along. The atmosphere is ... carnival.

As u stroll along, a couple of very innocent-looking young Chinese girls (some of them look barely out of school) walk up to u & try to chat u up .... "u want go for coffee ??" ... some of them are more direct .... "hey sir, u want lie with me?"... in their thin sing song voice. U tell them "No, thank you", ... & they melt into the crowd. Their male agents are even more brazenly direct .."sir ! u want nice girls to f... ?!" & he isn't exactly whispering into your ear ... u can see people on the other side of the plaza turning to look ... On one hand its quite funny ... & on the other hand, u feel sad at the level of desperation.

There are, of course, many other nicer things on Nanjing Lu .... the 'toy' trains that take tourists around the plaza ; ... outdoor cafes & restaurants.... then there's this musician in black suit, bow tie & black hat belting out yesteryears' hit tunes on his golden saxophone from the first floor balcony of one of those stately old mansions lining the plaza. The crowd in the plaza gather below the balcony to watch this gentleman play .... & they cheer him on.

The toy-sellers on the pavements are a delight.... all kinds of amazing toys which i've never seen anywhere else. The buildings along both sides of the plaza are architectural marvels ... exquisite beaux arts & art deco architecture of the 18th / 19th century ....... interwoven with modern steel & glass skyscrapers .... contrasting & complementing the other. The architectural blend of the old & the new is quite fascinating. This plaza is a must-see-and-experience for urban designers.... & for everyone else of course.

U continue to stroll eastwards & come to where Nanjing Lu meets Zhongshan Road, which runs along the western bank of the Huangpu River. U take the pedestrian subway across Zhongshan Road & emerge on the western bank plaza of the Huangpu River. This area is called the 'Bund'. By the way, it was in this subway that for the first time I got to see Vincent Van Gogh's paintings (reproductions) from up so close (& such large sizes) ... which decorated the subway walls. There i realized why his paintings r so talked about by all .... amazing depth ... quality of light ... serenity ...strength .... which u don't normally experience thru books & other printed media.

The view across the Huangpu River from the Bund is breath-taking, to say the least. On the eastern bank u can see the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, Jin Mao Tower + 'Observatory' /Grand Hyatt (designed by Skidmore, Owings & Merril) & many other architectural landmarks scraping the blue sky. The western edge of Zhongshan Road is also equally impressive with those magnificent French buildings ... the Broadway Mansion Hotel , China Everbright Bank, Peace Hotel, Customs House ... & of course the Monument for People's Heroes. This area is also known as the French Concession (Frenchmen & their families were assigned this quarter of the city).

As afternoon progresses to evening, the changing light of the setting sun is reflected on the glass-skinned towers across the river. The teeming crowd along the plaza is clicking & flashing away... it's a sight to behold ... Jin Mao Tower (with its unique Chinese architectural characteristics) shimmering in the golden light ... the pearly globes of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower softly glittering in hues of pinkish red turning to a dark, crimson red as the late evening sunlight gently fades.

After a while, the electric lights come on. All these towers are adorned & lit up all so pretty... its as if these buildings are not just life-less buildings .... they seemed to be alive .... dressed up like pretty young brides in their finest bridal wear ...visually communicating with the people.... they are like architectural citizens (or archizens) of the city. So u don't feel like calling them as just 'buildings' .... makes them sound life-less. But don't know what else to call them either. Wish there were a better word.... with more life in it.

Then there are these tourist boats with decks-full of tourists / sightseers cruising the river. It was a tempting thought to take a boat ride down the river. But it was getting rather windy & cold ... & I was without woolens. So I decide to just enjoy the view. Besides the tourist boats, there are these 'advertisement boats' with giant backlit LCD screens mounted on them .......... advertising apartment complexes, herbal healthcare products, Thai massage & so on... slowly floating up & down the river. I thought it was quite an enterprising idea.

Its approaching 7 pm. I hail a cab & tell the driver to take me to Jin Mao Tower across the river. A five minute ride through the tunnel under the Huangpu River & we're at the porch of Jin Mao Tower, which is located in Pudong (the new business district). The tower is 340 metres high (88 floors). It has an 'observatory' (actually a viewing deck) on top from where u get a 360 degree view of the whole city.

There are many high speed elevators (about 60 of them, I'm told) in the building, with 2 elevators dedicated for tourists. We all get into one of the elevators. 45 seconds after the elevator door closed, we are on the 88th floor ... which means we zipped up @ 9m/sec (more than two floors in one second !!).... and we didn't even feel it ! The view from the observation deck is simply awesome.

It is at such times that u come to believe that life's purpose is to create beauty ... and enjoy it. It is at such times that u realize how beautiful people are ... & how beautiful their minds are .... so creative, constructive, ... There is a post office on the observation deck from where u can send postcards & other gift items to your friends & family members anywhere in the world.

It's time to leave. In 40 seconds flat we're back on the ground.

To be continued ....

Read Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 |


* R.E.Gonmei contributes for the first time to e-pao.net. The writer can be contacted at r_emei(at)yahoo(dot)com . This article was webcasted on March 26th 2008.

* Comments posted by users in this discussion thread and other parts of this site are opinions of the individuals posting them (whose user ID is displayed alongside) and not the views of e-pao.net. We strongly recommend that users exercise responsibility, sensitivity and caution over language while writing your opinions which will be seen and read by other users. Please read a complete Guideline on using comments on this website.




LATEST IN E-PAO.NET
  • Tarao Harvesting Fest @Chandel #6 : Gallery
  • Violence in Manipur 2023-2025 : Timeline
  • Talheibi, Ningchui, Loyalakpa : eMing
  • 'Vande Bharat' Dream
  • NSS Orientation Programme at MU
  • The influence of the Golden Triangle
  • The Power of Poppy - 68 :: Poem
  • Prasanna Vithanage at Guwahati Film Fest
  • Md Alimuddin, celebrated Sagol Kangjei player
  • Condemnation of Armed Football Match
  • Webinar: KM3NeT Mediterranean experiment
  • Redefining Cancer care: People-centered
  • How thought leadership can propel your career
  • The Science of Success : Attitude #3
  • Guwahati Asian Film Fest : Day 1
  • Of guns and football
  • Armed men playing football, taunting Govt
  • 76th Republic Day @ Kangla #3 : Gallery
  • Epom Amadei Ithak - A theatrical revisit
  • Economy of the dynamic global landscape
  • Is the Bhagavad Gita relevant today ?
  • Healthy hair in Winter
  • Guwahati Asian Film Festival (GAFF) 2025
  • From the battlefields to Delhi
  • Speculations on replacement of Chief Minister
  • 12th Legislative Assembly #2 : Gallery
  • Education & its disjuncture in Manipur
  • HUN-Thadou Cultural Fest 2025 : Theme
  • Coo :: Poem
  • Agartala Coach : India U-19 Women Cricket
  • The story of the village of hope
  • Career choice in wetlands
  • CM in Delhi to meet Shah
  • After failed plastic ban bid, on brickfields
  • New catfish species discovered in Chakpi
  • Love, Unsure :: Poem
  • Manipur's border battles: Deeper conflict
  • A world without leprosy
  • Origin of corruption & possible remedies
  • The question of life
  • 'Sereki' unveils Majuli-themed campaign
  • Posers over summons to Delhi
  • Addiction-free campaign
  • Mera Chaorel Houba @Kangla #5 : Gallery
  • Manipur : Champions Jr Natl Sepaktakraw
  • Effective Unified Command approach
  • Saurashtrian Tamils
  • Accepting the change :: Poem
  • From Kumbh to heaven direct
  • Edge of the seat suspense
  • Wetlands revival efforts reaping fruit
  • Natambakta : Play by JNMDA #4 : Gallery
  • EIIFF 2025 unveils Festival Memento
  • Climate change & plant diseases
  • Shija Hospital- AHPI Healthcare Award
  • Budget 2025: A big gift for middle-class
  • The Science of Success : Attitude #2
  • Cakeology 2025: India's largest cake expo
  • Need to stick to a consistent narrative
  • Leniency on tobacco ban aiding demographic
  • 76th Republic Day @ Kangla #2 : Gallery
  • Pheiroijam Christina - 21st Miss North East
  • Manipur: Gold at 28th Jr National Sepaktakraw
  • Clarion call for redeeming our rightful future
  • The Power of Poppy - 67 :: Poem
  • Clean energy for sustainability
  • Union Budget: Industrialists from NE speaks
  • Balaram Sougaijamba: General of Manipur
  • Nikhil Okram crowned 14th Mister North East
  • Chadong village: Rising from waters with hope
  • Financial literacy for common man
  • Obituary: (L) Pu Thangkholen Sitlhou
  • Nail care in Winters
  • State of war since 2023: No winner, only losers
  • Talks on new district row
  • Radio E-pao: 1000+ songs from Manipur
  • Maibi Jagoi @ Kwak Tanba : Gallery
  • February Calendar for Year 2025 : Tools
  • Ballad of Letting Go :: Poem
  • 2nd Eikhoigi Imphal International Film Fest
  • Deeper exploration of term 'Hill-Valley Divide'
  • Children's Book to adopt 'Look East Policy'
  • Pony registration & conservation
  • Endless suffering of internally displaced child
  • 21st Ningtham Kumhei Fest #2 : Gallery
  • Thiyam Suryamukhi conferred Padma Shri
  • Isolate Kuki Militants by facilitating safe return
  • Sports Meet held at Rongdai Village
  • Eco-Apocalypse: Prevent collapse with Green
  • Grand Finale : 21st Mega Miss North East
  • Time to give more teeth to ST demand
  • 5 years of ILP; what about NRC demand ?
  • Remembering Md Ladu, celebrated polo player
  • The Lament of Love's Deceit :: Poem
  • Need for inculcating value based education
  • Royte - Times Young Entrepreneur Award
  • Glass Child Syndrome ! 'Sibling rivalry'
  • 6 Films for NE Section at GAFF 2025
  • Pony registration & conservation
  • Impartial anti-extortion cell need of the hour
  • 76th Republic Day @ Kangla #1 : Gallery
  • Conservation Strategies of Pethia manipurensis
  • Remembers 13 Brave Indian Soldiers
  • Workshop: Intl Year of Quantum Science
  • Governor's role and discretionary powers
  • Physics workshop for educators at Agartala
  • Who wins Delhi - Daru or Dharma
  • War on Drugs: A war Manipur cannot loses
  • NE turning into transnational drug hub
  • Essence of Gaan-Ngai #2
  • Manipur's dystopian reality
  • The day Light reached the hills
  • 2nd Eikhoigi Imphal Intl Film Fest 2025
  • Why is depreciation of rupee not stopping ?
  • An introduction to Rabies (Hydrophobia) #5
  • Thoithoiba Yelhou Yangkok Artist #2 : Gallery
  • Republic Day Titbits
  • NIT Manipur: Best Design Award @VLSI Design
  • The Power of Poppy - 66 :: Poem
  • Grand Finale: 14th Mega Mister North East
  • Application : FILMART, Hong Kong
  • The Science of Success : Attitude #1
  • 21st Ningtham Kumhei Fest #1 : Gallery
  • Demographic for balkanisation of Manipur
  • Training on Mushroom Cultivation at Nambol
  • Jugeshwor Kshetrimayum receives GELA 2025
  • Construction Committee of Meetei Yumpham
  • Call against misuse of social media
  • Positive & negative aspects of social media
  • In Search of Peace in Manipur
  • Embracing the Shadows :: Poem
  • Dr Manmohan Singh will live on
  • Rise in the price of medicines
  • Respecting the dead- Denying is a disgrace
  • Winter skin care tips for oily skin
  • Illegal immigrants :: Of FMR & border fencing
  • JD-U row exposes national parties' apathy
  • State Gaan-Ngai @Sagolband #2 : Gallery
  • On 'Only BJP can save Manipur'
  • Frontline health workers dispelling darkness
  • 14th East Himalayan Trade Fair
  • Life is plastic
  • Killers on the road : 834 lives lost
  • Call to action to save State's wetlands
  • Essence of Gaan-Ngai #1
  • The Taste of Dreams wins @Red Intl Film Fest
  • Science: 3rd eye for Meitei-Kuki reconciliation
  • Northeast flies high in direct selling
  • Mastering focus amidst distractions
  • An introduction to Rabies (Hydrophobia) #4
  • Indo-Naga Talks (From 2012) :: Timeline
  • BJP : Tepid response from the hills
  • BABINA Hospital sets example in healthcare
  • Nitya Ras @Nongmeibung #1 : Gallery
  • Agonizing reality of our country's veteran elites
  • Historicising the colonial narratives
  • NSS Team Departs for National Integration
  • HUN-Thadou Cultural Festival 2025
  • Time to recreate Naga Peoples Convention 2.0
  • Career in nutrition
  • Need to give more meaning to War on Drugs
  • Time for real action not empty rhetoric
  • Foundation: Manipur Press Club #2 : Gallery
  • "Aronba Wari" :: Shumang Leela Synopsis
  • Tripura's livelihoods challenges
  • Archaeological Exhibition @ Kangla : Gallery
  • Gaan-Ngai @Chaopok village #1 : Gallery
  • Manipur needs to affirm her tribal roots
  • Madras/Chennai- 1989 till 2024 : Gallery
  • Investigate "arms recoveries" in Mizoram
  • Training on Mushroom Cultivation
  • NE Direct Selling Conference & Expo
  • Response of Delhi in last 20 months
  • Regulated entry after FMR scrap, border
  • Mutua Bahadur : Preserving Manipuri culture
  • Competitive Altruism: Resolving ethnic conflict
  • Pithe Puli Utsav at Agartala
  • Building the best version of yourself
  • Guwahati Asian Film Festival 2025
  • Tips to keep your lips soft & smooth in winter
  • Subsidised flight tickets for all
  • MCPCR alert on child trafficking fear
  • Imoinu Erat Thouni @ Wangkhei : Gallery
  • Gaan-Ngai celebrating Culture in Delhi NCR
  • The Weeping Gods of Manipur :: Poem
  • Disarming Kuki-Zo armed groups under SoO
  • Why nurses deserve more recognition, pay
  • The hidden truths of our social media lives
  • MMTU stand bang on target: Recapping May 3
  • Enhancing aerial options to ease travel woes
  • 2nd Emoinu Fish Festival #1 : Gallery
  • Sustainable development - climate action #1
  • RIST Talk- 62 : Artificial Intelligence (AI)
  • "Technically a BJP MLA will rule Nagaland"
  • Makar Sankranti : vibrant customs & traditions
  • Why gold is a strong hedge but ...
  • Delhi date on January 17
  • Onus of addressing tribal issues on new Guv?
  • Nupilal Ningshing Lamjel #2 : Gallery
  • Licypriya Kangujam: Nat'l Youth Day Award
  • Barak Festival advocates Peace, Progress
  • 'Yu', not fully liberalised
  • Article 355 equals Governor's Rule ?
  • Calls to vote with conscience
  • Zingtun academy leading by example
  • State Gaan-Ngai @Sagolband #1 : Gallery
  • Is Kuki-Zo community pushing Nagas to edge?
  • Will drive to find-treat-prevent TB continue ?
  • Smart Cities, dustier roads ?
  • ST of NE & Dalits of mainland India
  • That May :: Poem
  • Understanding Red, Yellow, Green
  • Cong posers on Govt aid to SoO group
  • Culturals @Tri-Nation Football #1 : Gallery
  • Gaan-Ngai festival of Kabui/Rongmei
  • Hingminashi Eikhoi : Call for unity in diversity
  • Gangtok, Sikkim (1983 till 1988) : Gallery
  • Misna Chanu aids to Jiribam IDPs : Gallery
  • Mega Protest Rally, end AFSPA #2: Gallery
  • Ningol Chakkouba @ Delhi #3 : Gallery
  • AIR Radio Imphal Station - Live streaming
  • Nupi Lal Memorial @Pune #2 : Gallery
  • The historical account of Kabaw Valley #3
  • Featured Front Page Photo 2024 #6: Gallery
  • E-Pao.net : 25th Anniv & 2025 Wishes
  • Protest @Delhi - Murder of Meiteis #2: Gallery
  • "Connections", art exhibitt @ DC : Gallery
  • Observance of Thang-Ta Day #1 : Gallery
  • Nupi Lal Memorial @Pune #1 : Gallery
  • Meitei Mayek Tamba : Online Classroom #5
  • Indigenous People Cultural Fest #1 : Gallery
  • Maibi Jagoi @ Mera Houchongba: Gallery
  • Ta Ta TabuHtoN :: Seireng
  • Downloadable Manipuri Calendar :: 2025
  • GHOST of PEACE :: Download Booklet