Four Churches in one compound

S Balakrishnan *

A 'walk' during Madras Week a few years ago revealed surprising aspects – four Churches in a single compound ! And three of them more than 200 years old !

As if these two surprises were not enough, the cemetery attached to the Church had more surprises – a grave as old as 1795 (the first one here), a grave of a soldier who guarded Napoleon at St. Helena, another of a war hero against Tipu Sultan, etc.

First mention about the earliest of these Churches is in 1796. The 4-in-1 Church complex is in Poonthamallee town (originally Poovirundhavalli), a western suburb of Chennai, bang on Poonamalee-Avadi High Road. During British rule, Poonthamalle played a crucial role as it is the western gateway to Chennai city; beyond Poonthamallee lay the Arcot Nawabs.

Therefore, the East India Company and then the colonial British rulers always had an eye on Poonthamalle. They extended their grip on this suburb by constructing Churches and other buildings like barracks, etc. The barrack was converted as Asia's first school for visually impaired in 1931, a century after its completion.

The earliest of these four Churches is a tiny, lovely, humble structure, probably erected for the soldiers of East India Company. As the congregation increased, the need for a bigger Church building was felt that necessitated the construction of a moderate Church. When we visited the complex, we noticed that a balwadi was being run in the earliest Church. The second one was now in use for Bible classes.

The third Church, St. Mary Magdalene Church, that came up in 1818 has celebrated its bi-centenary in 2018. The fourth one, also named CSI St. Mary Magdalene Church, a very spacious one, has come up recently to serve the faithful flock.

It was gratifying to note that the old, historical Church buildings were not demolished; in fact, they are being maintained fairly well, with the floor shining and reflecting the natural sun light that peeps through the vintage windows.

While the earliest structure is a very humble building, the second building has a three-tiered façade and a double-deck tiled roof with arched pillars and windowed verandahs on either side. Two palm trees rise to the height of the front tower, adding natural beauty to the old edifice. The four projected side entrances add charm to the whole structure.

An additional attraction is the local floor tile called 'Aathangudi tile' that has been laid from the doorway to the altar. Ceiling fans and bulbs dangle from the high-rise ceiling. The façade of the bi-centenary Church building has an open verandah with tall pillars rising to ceiling. The arched foldable window doors and the wooden doors have innovative wooden venetian blinds!

Here also the altar is simple with just a cross. The verandahs are covered with 'Madras ceiling'. Cluster hanging lamps shed muted light in the interior. The antique holy water font was the star of attraction among other antique furniture, etc.

The modern new structure, built close to the 2nd Church, has a high rising tower. The first two Churches could be of CSI Wesley but I am not very sure with these Christian nomenclatures.

The cemetery attached to the Church threw up more historical surprises. The first grave is of the year 1795, i.e., 225 years old ! It was for Capt. Ambrose Rosell, 37, of His Majesty's 52nd Reg., who passed away on 3rd July 1795; it was raised by his Brother Officers. He was the elder brother of Irish Radical Thomas Russel who was executed in Ireland.

Another one belonged to Major Donald Mc Donald of East India Company's 2nd Batt. of 42 Regiment Native Infantry. He died on 19th June 1799 during the siege of Seringapatam (Srirangapatnam near Mysore in Karnataka) at the battle with Tipu Sultan.

A very interesting and pitiable grave is that of Ensign (a position in navy) John Ingleby of HM 53 Regt., who died on 4th June 1818, aged just 25, almost immediately on arrival in Madras from St. Helena, guarding Napoleon Bonaparte who was defeated in the Waterloo battle. The grave was erected by his brother officers who accompanied him from St. Helena. Unlike the Churches, the cemetery is in a very poor condition.

It is pertinent to point out here that the very first Anglican Church to be raised on the east of the Suez Canal was in 1680 in the precincts of the Madras Fort (Fort St. George), dedicated to St. Mary the Blessed virgin, under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of London; thus came established the presence of the non-Roman Catholic Church in Madras/India.

I came to know of this interesting historical/religious fact also during a Madras Walk in the Fort area. With the Covid pandemic, no Madras Walk was probably organised during the last two years. I eagerly look forward to a Madras Walk during 2022 that could spring more new surprises.

But Covid could throw a surprise with the rise of 4th wave.