Bishnupur – In search of an old Mandir
- Part 3 -

S Balakrishnan *

Temple of Vishnu, Bishenpur District, Bishnupur, Manipur in June 2015 :: Pix - Deepak Oinam

The small Chinese-style bricks could not be seen markedly as the structure is smoothly plastered. However, such small bricks could be observed in the designing of ventilation openings that are set slightly inwards, up and above the wall.

The doorway has a small dome which is juxtaposed with another bigger dome above the sanctum sanctorum. All along above lintel level, masonry folding motif adds to the simplistic beauty of the structure.

On the other hand, the doorway has pyramidal-like masonry design mounted on pillars on either side. Despite the rains, I was scouting for bits of the small brick as valuable archaeological keepsake, but found none.

My wife was visibly relieved because already I have a good collection of sand, stone and shell from as far as Indira Point, the real southernmost point of India in Great Nicobar Island, Thar Desert of Rajasthan, Sikkim Himalayas, Assam, etc. How could I leave Manipur without such a collection? I was lucky indeed to pick up a piece of broken brick from the revered Kangla Fort!

At the end, I could not gloat about my archaeological exploration in Bishnupur because it was just the opposite of my wild imagination.

I had imagined it to be a very vast complex in half ruins that give a special mystic touch of archaeological value to old monuments. But this was comparatively a small, neatly preserved structure; just a mandap without statues or artistic works, at least on the outer surface.

I do not know if I had expected something magnificent like Angkor Wat in Cambodia (one of my dream destinations) or the Sun Temple of Konark (a favourite haunt while I was in Orissa, now Odisha). Am I to fault my own over-imagination?

While proceeding from Bishnupur to Imphal, we did stop at Red Hill (Lokpaching) where, during World War II, British and Japanese soldiers had fought a fierce battle. Also called Point 2926, one of the fiercest battles of II WW was fought here between May 21 & 29, 1944.

A Peace Memorial has been constructed in memory of Japanese soldiers who sacrificed their life in that battle. I do not know if Japanese are revered in this part for their role during the II WW, but in Andamans the Japanese are hated. During the 3 1/2 year occupation of the Andaman & Nicobar Islands by the Japanese during II WW period, they had inflicted untold torture on the civilians and indulged in mass murders.

It is a sad & long story. Hence they are dreaded. Having read about it, I think I am also impacted. As some top echelon of Assam Rifles or BRO was to visit the Peace Memorial, we were first declined entry; later, however, the jawan was magnanimous to permit us inside for a hurried & hushed visit, though the top brass was nowhere in sight.

So much of pampering even at a sacrosanct place like Peace Memorial! In military and para-military organizations, it is simply beyond decent levels. We were witness to such an incident earlier in Majuli, Assam.

The next itinerary was a refreshing shower at Sadu Chiru Waterfall (Sadar Hills). We were under the impression that the waterfall would be just close to Tiddim Road (NH-150), or right on the highway itself, as we found so many waterfalls along the roads in Sikkim.

But it was first a drive of 10-15 minutes along the kutcha road and then trekking for another 15 minutes. Our guide, Krishna, had tricked us into climbing all the way, puffing & sweating. The water was tempting, so I decided to plunge into it and got dressed accordingly.

But when I neared the spot and as the water sprayed on me, it was so chill and I decided not to take a risk. It was just the second day of our visit and there was much more to be explored in Manipur. 'Damn you, what will happen to our schedule if you caught fever?' was my wife's worry!

Was she worried about my catching fever or was it about the trip, I do not understand even to this day! Anyhow, that gave us a chance to set our foot in one more District of Manipur, that is Senapati, thus adding to a total of six districts during our six-day trip – Bishnupur, Imphal East & West, Thoubal, (the four Valley Districts), Senapati, and Chandel (two Hill Districts), leaving three more hill districts untouched & unspoiled by our visit!

Persistence pays, they claim; may not be as big as I had imagined, but it does. That was a lesson I learnt in Bishnupur. I am glad that we could buy at least a handful of Manipur handicrafts there. Always seize the first opportunity. That was the second lesson that I learnt in Bishnupur!

And, the word mother (Ima) is cho-chweet in all the languages was the third and eternal lesson that I learnt in Bishnupur!

Concluded....