A Shiva temple that is 1000 years ancient

S Balakrishnan *

The Shiva Temple of Gangai Konda Chola Puram is an ancient temple of one thousand (1000) years! Yet, it is not just a showpiece but still under daily worship. For its architectural beauty and still being under worship continuously for almost 1000 years, UNESCO has enlisted this temple as a World Heritage Centre (WHC) in 2004.

The temple testifies to the Cholas’ brilliant achievements in architecture, sculpture, painting, and bronze casting. The tradition of temple worship and rituals established and practised since a thousand years ago, based on still older Aagamic texts, continues to this day as an inseparable part of peoples’ life.

The Gangai Konda Chola Puram temple (actually it is a tongue-twisting one-word Tamil name – Gangaikondacholapuram – that is split here for easy pronunciation sake) has another major feature also; it is a replica of the world-famous Big Temple of Thanjavur, (consecrated in AD 1009-10) also in Tamil Nadu, and which too is a UNESCO WHC.

Both these temples are called Brihadeeshwarar Temples (Briha=Big, Eeshwar=Lord Shiva) as both these temples have huge shivlings in the sanctum; a 13-ft. shivlinga is consecrated here. While the Thanjavur Big Temple was built by the Chola dynasty king Rajarajan, this replica was raised by his son Rajendra-I in 1035, a quarter century later. It took nine years to complete the temple.

Rajendra’s temple is not a massive one but a comparatively small but beautiful temple; so this graceful copy is described as the feminine form of Thanjavur’s Big Temple. These two Temples and one more temple built by another Chola king have been grouped as ‘The Great Living Chola Temples’ in Unesco’s WHC List.

King Rajendra Cholan-I had conquered lands up to the Ganges plains (up to Bengal, East Bengal and Bastar) in 1023 AD and brought water from the River Ganges. Hence he was praised as Gangai Konda (won/conquered/brought) Cholan, and his new capital was called Gangaikondacholapuram or Gangaikondacholeeswaram after the presiding deity of the temple. Rajendran ruled from 1012-1044.

He was named Madurantakan but crowned as Rajendran. He was also conferred the supreme title of Cholas as ‘Parakesari’. He ruled the kingdom for 2 years along with his father Rajarajan and then shifted his capital, on the demise of his father, to the new venue.

This new capital city, 70 kms from his father’s capital, Thanjavur, was the seat of power of the Chola dynasty for the next 256 years. But what remains now of the capital city are only mounds and bits & pieces; because, while the god’s house (the temple) was raised with solid rocks, the king’s fort and palace were built with bricks. Invaders had destroyed the fort and palace, leaving the temple to stand alone.

There is said to be a tunnel inside the temple that once connected the palace. Later kings of other dynasties had donated for the upkeep of this temple. The Tamil Nadu Government has now decided to excavate in this old city which lies desolate.

King Rajendra-I also created a huge Lake known as Chola Gangam that spreads over 22 km (700 acre) (now called Ponneri), some distance from the temple. This is said to be the largest man-made ancient lake in India. Its maximum depth is 17 ft. and capacity is 114.45 cft. He also built around 10 temples at various places.

Gangaikondacholapuram temple is situated on the Trichy-Chidambaram state highway, surrounded by a huge fort like wall that had a two-tired mandap running all around. This was greatly destructed by a British officer (1896 A.D) to use the granite rocks for constructing the Lower Anicut (dam) across river Kollidam.

The temple’s sanctum tower rises gracefully with curving movement to a height of 53-m with recessed corners. Guarding its various entrances are six pairs of huge monolithic dwarapalas. The complex also houses sub-shrines of Chandesa, Goddess Parvathi (Periyanayaki), and a well guarded by a huge lion, hence called Simha Keni (Lion Well); later additions were shrines for Kailasha, Durga and Ganesha.

As you pass through the main entrance, the posterior of a huge bull (Nandhi) welcomes you. Made of brick & mortar, it is elaborately ornamented and sits majestically, facing the deity.

As we were winding up an official publicity campaign in Ariyalur, I suggested a detour on the return journey to visit this temple. While others were worshipping with closed eyes, I was appreciating the beauty of the whole temple complex with wide-open eyes, and in particular the sculptures of deities on the outer wall – Ardhanareeswar, Natarajar, Lakshmi, Chandeeswarar, and Lord Shiva crowning Rajendran, etc.

It was a hurried hop off / hop on visit; my desire to visit it leisurely with family happened after a few years when conservation works had been completed. We beat the sun to shame and reached Gangaikondacholeeswaram Temple even as the first rays of the rising sun touched the main eastern doorway, and spent an hour or so. The sanctum has two mandaps in front of it, all built on a raised platform.

The mandaps have pillars which style became a trendsetter. While the temple is under ASI protection since 1946, the daily pujas and management are by the HR & CE Dept. of State Govt. It is open from 6.30 AM to 8.30 PM and no fee is charged because it is a temple under worship.

The temple was completely renovated and kumbhabhishekam performed in 2017, after 85 years. The Gangaikondacholeeswaram Temple stands gracefully awaiting a grand celebration on turning 1000 years.