Fate of fermented products amid climate concerns

Nongmaithem Debarani *

Fate of fermented products amid climate concerns :: Pix - Chronicle News Service / Nongmaithem Debarani

Fermented food products, including those of fish (Ngari) and soybean (hawaijar), are recognised as integral to the food culture and nutrition of the state. These foods are rich in probiotics (such as lactobacilli), essential nutrients, and beneficial bacteria, which contribute to good digestive health and provide many other health benefits.

However, with rising temperatures, and extreme weather events posing significant risks to public health, including foodborne illnesses and nutrient loss, concerns have emerged over the possibility of these climate variability impacts interfering in the production, quality and safety of these fermented foods.

Ngari is made from pool barbs (Puntius sophore) or locally known as Phabou Nga, and is widely consumed in Manipur and other states as well. These are packed tightly into an earthen pot with a bit of vegetable oil and sealed. It is then stored and left to ferment for around six months at room temperature.

Apart from being a high source of protein, vitamins, essential amino acids, and fatty acids, Ngari aids in digestion and has pharmacological benefits.

Hawaijar, or naturally fermented soybean food, is an alkaline, non-salted, sticky and slightly ammoniacal, with a slightly pungent smell but having unique flavor.

It is similar to the fermented soybean products from other countries and states like Natto (Japan), Tempeh (Indonesia), Douchi (China), Thuanao (Thailand), Choongkook jang (Korea), Kinema in Sikkim, Bekang in Mizoram, Tungrymbai in Meghalaya and Akhoni in Nagaland, exclusively produced and marketed by womenfolk.

Traditionally, every locality in Manipur has one or two producers of hawaijar, which they sell in their surrounding area only. The soybeans are washed and boiled for 2-3 hours. It is then loosely packed in a bamboo basket lined with leaves of different plants and left to ferment for 2-3 days at room temperature.

While soybeans grow well with just the right amount of sun and wet soil, it is vulnerable to frost, waterlogging, diseases, and pests in the early stages of growth. This could result in production of low-quality beans, which could in turn affect the fermentation process.

In the case of Ngari, with the rising temperatures, unpredictable rainfall and changing aquatic ecosystems, the quality and availability of pool barb, the primary raw material, are being increasingly affected. In addition, the fish population in the state had been rapidly declining due to rising commercial activity and increased pollution in and around Loktak Lake, as per a 2015 study.

The state is unable to meet its own demands for the fish and has been importing the same from other neighbouring states like Assam and countries like Bangladesh. Using low-quality fish or soybeans to prepare the fermented products result in less nutrition, thereby affecting the health benefits particularly probiotics and bacterial compounds which are good for the gut.

Inadequate preservation can also lead to growth of bacterial growth, increasing the risk of foodborne illness.

In addition, while both Ngari and Hawaijar are left to ferment at room temperature, this is rather specific. Rising temperatures could accelerate or the fermentation process, leading to over fermentation, which could then alter the nutritional profile.

The incomplete or over fermentation could potentially lead to excess production of lactic acid (by lactobacilli) or histamine poisoning. The changes in humidity and temperature can increase the risk of contamination and spoilage during the fermentation process, leading to growth of harmful molds, yeasts, etc.

Meanwhile, fluctuations in the temperature can disrupt the proper storage of these fermented products, leading to varied issues like food poisoning (reports of food poisoning cases due to Hawaijar are becoming frequent), gastrointestinal distress and long-term health complications. This is especially concerning for those with weak immune systems or other health issues.

Taking these effects at the molecular level, Shija Hospitals & Research Institute medical services director Dr Jugindro highlighted the need to study how climate change is affecting the digestive system when these fermented food products are consumed.

He also stressed the need to study if any mutation had taken place in the genetic structures of lactobacilli due to consumption of fermented products whose nutritional profile have been altered due to climate change, as some studies have claimed. He further raised concerns whether these changes could alter the overall genetics inside the gut and lead to increase incidences of diseases like cancer.

The director then raised concerns on whether the departments concerned are taking climate change into consideration on preparing policies or regulating licenses, while asking if the population should be advised to consume curd and other curd products to fulfil or maintain the need for normal lactobacilli.

In this regard, Dana-Farber Cancer Institute and Brigham and Women's Hospital gastrointestinal oncologist and Harvard Medical School instructor-in-medicine Dr Thejus Jayakrishnan, during the recent AHPICON NE II, conveyed that changes in the genetics of the gut, which is a mini micro biome, could lead to occurrence of cancers, as some studies have shown.

However, there is a need to conduct more studies in the matter, as this is an active area of research.

Although there is no instant specific solution to mitigate the impacts of climate change on fermented products like Ngari and Hawaijar, there are still some measures that could be taken.

They may include adaptation of fermentation and storage technologies, sustainable and climate-resilient sourcing of raw materials, strengthening food safety standards and monitoring, increasing public awareness campaigns and education, supporting traditional fermentation practices as they can help maintain food safety and quality even in the light of climate change, and encouraging research and studies on probiotic and microbial cultures for overall health.

The impacts of climate change on fermented products are multifaceted, posing potential health risks. However, through adaptive strategies as mentioned above, it is possible to protect the health benefits of fermented foods, preserve local food traditions, and ensure a steady supply of safe and nutritious fermented products.

This will contribute to the health and well-being of communities that depend on these foods for both nutritional and cultural purposes.

(The report is filed under the
5th Media Fellowship Programme on Climate Change Reporting
under the sponsorship of Directorate of Environment and Climate Change,
Government of Manipur) .