A 237-year-old Church patronised by a Hindu King

S Balakrishnan *

Schwartz Church is a church situated in Thanjavur, India :: Pix - Wikipedia/Nandhinikandhasamy

A humble Church in Thanjavur Town in Tamil Nadu stands a tall testimony to religious tolerance and amity for 237 long years since 1779.

Father Christian Friedrich Schwartz, a Danish missionary, was the tool that Christ chose to start this abode of God in 1779. Hence it is popularly known as Schwartz Church. This 90×50 ft. building is more characteristic of French architecture.

The most striking feature, however, is that the land where the church is raised belongs to a Hindu King; in addition it is situated within the fort-like enclosure of the world-famous Big Temple of Thanjavur, a UNESCO Heritage Site! Hence the church is also known as Fort Church. It was King Serfoji, the Maratha king then ruling Thanjavaur (Tanjore), who donated this piece of land to Father Schwartz and also monetarily helped him raise the building.

In a way King Serfoji (Sarabhoji) was repaying his debt to Rev. Schwartz. Prince Serfoji was saved by Rev. Schwartz from Amar Singh who usurped the throne after the death of his half-brother the King Thulajah. Serfoji was sent to Madras (Chennai) by the Danish missionary where Rev. Wilhelm Gericke of the Lutheran Mission took care of his educational needs.

It is notable that Serfoji was actually born in the royal house of Chhatrapati Shivaji, the great Maratha King. Thanjavur King Thulajah adopted Serfoji as his son. The British later intervened and Serfoji was made a titular king with the powers of administration ceded to the British! King Serfoji's sovereignty was actually restricted to the Fort of Thanjavur and its vicinity. Serfoji was, therefore, the last sovereign ruler of Thanjavur. His descendants still live in Thanjavur.

After Schwartz passed away in 1798, King Serfoji also got installed a sculpture within this church that truly depicts the respect he had for Rev. Schwartz. The King ordered this marble tablet with the following obituary:
"To the memory of the Reverend Christian Frederic Swartz. Born at Sonnenburg of Neumark in the Kingdom of Prussia, the 26th of October 1726, and died at Tanjore the 13th of February 1798, in the 72nd Year of his age. Devoted from his Early Manhood to the Office of Missionary in the East, the similarity of his situation to that of the first preachers of the gospel, produced in him a peculiar resemblance to the simple sanctity of the apostolic character. His natural vivacity won the affection as his, unspotted probity and purity of life alike commanded the reverence of the Christian, Mahomedan and Hindu. For sovereign princes, Hindu, and Mahomeden selected this humble pastor as the medium of political negotiations with the British Government. And the very marble here records the virtue Was raised by The liberal affection and esteem of the Raja of Tanjore Maha Raja Sirfojee"

The sculpture, executed by John Flaxman, depicts the King holding the hand of the dying Schwartz and receiving his blessings. Guericke (Serfojee's missionary teacher in Madras) stands beside him holding the Bible in his hands. The robes, headgear and earrings of the royal entourage are to be noted; the huddling kids are wearing full trousers and shoes. Excellently sculpted!

While I was scanning around in the church, the keeper, Mr. Dharmaraja, and his son-in-law explained the nuances of the building and its special features. At the altar only a simple cross is placed with a flower vase on either side.

The inscribed granite tablet behind has the letter ' f ' where ' s' ought to be; for an instance, 'servant' is written 'fervant'. There are no other statue of any sort inside the church or outside. Though the benches for devotees have been replaced, old benches were also seen kept aside. The wooden podium remains the same from where Father Schwartz conducted prayers, they said. The building has supporting pillars that form arches with a dome above the altar and a curved roof for the prayer hall and aisles on either side. Circular ventilators are seen above the windows.

The remains of one Mrs. Strange (what a strange name!) lies buried near the altar since 1791, declares the tomb stone. She was the wife of Mr. James Strange Esq. working in the East India Company's Civil Services. She was aged 32 and left behind a daughter. Whereas she died in Madras, her remains were brought and interned in Thanjavur. Then there is another marble plaque affixed to the opposite pillar that announces the death on 23rd May 1789 of M. Sarah Burrowes, 'beloved' wife of Thomas Burrowes, Major of Cavalry. Only after death the wife becomes 'beloved', I suppose!

An interesting scribbling was pointed out to me. This pencil-written note on one of the pillars, probably by a simple soldier, was discovered during renovation, they added. It records the stay in Thanjavur of the 71st Regiment for two years. It goes like this:
The 71st Regiment arrived at Tanjore on 31st of August 1794 and departed from hence on Thursday evening at half past four O' clock the 16th September 1796 .

Interestingly, the maintenance of the Schwartz Church of Thanjavur continues to rest with the Hindu royal family of Thanjavur. It may sound strange that whereas Jesus was nailed to the cross not even a single nail can be hammered in the church, pointed out the caretaker with pride. This is to maintain the heritage nature of this 237-year-old Church.

The specialty of this Fort Church where devotees' prayers are answered effectively is that its doors are kept open throughout for about 12 hours since morning.