TODAY -

Yogini Temple of Hirapur, Odisha

S Balakrishnan *



The 64 Yogini Temple in Hirapur, though a small one, is special in many ways. First, it is a symbol of Women Power because the Yoginis are considered to be offshoots of Saptamatrika (Seven Mother Goddesses) and incarnations of Shakti.

Second, it is one of the only four such surviving Yogini Temples in India; one more Yogini Temple in Odisha is in Ranipur-Jharial of Bolangir Dist. while the rest two are in Madhya Pradesh. However, another source claims there are 11 existing Yogini temples in India. Next, it is a circular temple and entirely different from the traditional Odishan temple architectural pattern.

Another unique feature is it is without a roof – it is a hypaethral (roofless) structure (hypa=under, ethrus=sky, air). This may be so because the Yogini cult worshipped the pancha bootha (five elements) – air, water, fire, earth and ether or sky. The Hirapur Yogini Temple is claimed to be the smallest among these four but the best preserved.

The Yogini cult thrived in India from 8th to 13th century AD. The followers practiced yoga along with tantric ways. The presiding deity is Goddess Kali or a Shivlinga, both of which are again associated with tantric worship. It is said that the yogini's define and represent the ultimate feminine power. Hence the 64 yogini's are vividly depicted and seem to embrace life rather than withdraw from it.

Most of them can be seen riding their vahanas (mounts) or standing atop the human body. The yoginis are carved out of shiny black stone. But unlike the temples of that period (9th century), no erotic sculpture is found here. This could be attributed to the reason that the cult believed in celibacy to attain salvation.

The Hirapur Chausath temple is 15 km from Bhubaneswar, Odisha's capital city, which itself is acclaimed as a Temple City with hundreds of temples – small & big. This temple is believed to have been raised during the 9th century at the order of Queen Hiradevi (hence the name Hirapur?), mother of King Subhakar Dev II of the Bhaumakar dynasty.

Vandalised by Kalapahad, a converted Muslim general of 16th CE, this small but striking temple was discovered in 1953 by noted historian Shri Kedarnath Mohapatra who was then the curator of the Odisha State Museum. The temple is now under the good care of Archeological Survey of India (ASI).

I first explored it in 1983 (January 2) when I was working in Cuttack, the old capital of Orissa, some 35 kms north of Bhubaneswar. It was a Sunday, yet I sacrificed my sleep and woke up early to catch an inter-city bus at Cuttack's Badambadi bus station by 8.30 am itself.

It was almost three years since I was transferred from Port Blair (Andamans) to Cuttack but I had not seen the beautiful temples of Bhubaneswar which is praised as the Cathedral City of the East as it abounds with temples. Of course, I had visited Konark Sun Temple a few times and the Puri Jagannath Temple but not Bhubaneswar temples.

So I decided to use up the three days of saved Casual Leave of the year 1982 [for Central Government staff it was 12 days of C.L. for every year then which was later reduced to 8 per annum; but Saturday, which was then a working day, was changed as weekly off along with Sunday, as if to compensate; the 5-day working style was introduced by Rajiv Gandhi government in the V pay commission so that the employees could refresh themselves on Saturday & Sunday and work efficiently (?) during the next five days!

What a high expectation – govt. servants and efficiency!] Coupled with two Sundays, X'mas and Miladi Nabi, I managed to avail seven days of leave at a stretch to explore the few important temples of Bhubaneswar. I realized it was just impossible to see all the temples of the Temple City!

Getting down at Bhubaneshwar, I took my cycle from the Directorate of Field Publicity (DFP) office, where I had left it for safe custody on 30th December evening. [I had to attend office on the last working day of 1982; besides, the unused CL quota was also over. 1st January, New Year's Day, is a working day for Central Government offices.] DFP is a sister department of our office Press Information Bureau (PIB).

Enquiring all the way (You see, no Google map then), I pedaled the 15 km and reached Hirapur to see the 64-Yogini temple. Locally they call it Mahamaya Temple. I had cleverly chosen the right season Dec.-Jan., as the weather would be pleasant and there would be no sweating. After going around the temple I had noted in my travel jotting as follows: "Not an artistic structure, nor a stupendous one. But the statues are finely carved, though all have been damaged. Looks like wanton damage."

What a scholarly opinion! Pedaling along the canal road, I joined the National Highway (NH) 5 at Balidanda, Kuakhai Bridge, and then rode on to reach Cuttack by 3.30 PM. I was damn tired when I reached my YMCA room but happy that my dream tour to Bhubaneshwar had been successfully completed.

My second visit to Hirapur was again in January but 35 years later in 2018 when my family members accompanied me to Odisha. I was so excited to visit Odisha again after such a long gap. After watching the Republic Day Parade at the capital city on January 26, we proceeded to Hirapur. Comparatively the maintenance seemed better.

Before all the Yoginis an earthen pot with a coconut, cloth piece and a bunch of mango leaf atop was placed as a symbol of worship. Paddy grains and flowers had also been offered. The sacred pond attached to this temple was brimming with water but its surrounding was littered with the omnipresent plastic trash. The temple was not as desolate as in 1983, yet the ambience was calm and green. It was a B & W still camera then and now a digital/cell phone camera.

While the circular temple is built of sandstone (khondalite?), the statues are carved of black stone. They are each placed in separate rectangular niches of 2ft. height along the inner wall. Most of the Yoginis are in standing position but in different postures – dancing, yogic, tantric, hunting, warring, etc. Though the temple as a whole is devoid of much ornamentation, the statues are finely carved with rich ornamentation, hair style, etc.

Maximum height is said to be 8 ft and the diameter of this circular, roofless temple is 30 ft. The entrance is flanked by dwarapalakas (male or female guards, it is not clear as they are damaged/ruined). The outer circular wall has a few niches (could be eight in all) with damaged figures. At the centre of the circular temple is a raised square platform with arched portals and a few statues on the walls but no roof again.

Well, I did not actually count to check if there are 64 Yogini statues but I believe so. On this auspicious Women's Day, let me seek the blessings of these Chausathi (64) Yoginis and also my Home Minister's blessings!


* S Balakrishnan wrote this article for The Sangai Express
The writer can be reached at krishnanbala2004(AT)yahoo(DOT)co(DOT)in
This article was webcasted on March 17 2023.



* Comments posted by users in this discussion thread and other parts of this site are opinions of the individuals posting them (whose user ID is displayed alongside) and not the views of e-pao.net. We strongly recommend that users exercise responsibility, sensitivity and caution over language while writing your opinions which will be seen and read by other users. Please read a complete Guideline on using comments on this website.




LATEST IN E-PAO.NET
  • Yaoshang & Thabal @ Pune : Gallery
  • Sangai Fest: Adventure activities : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 28 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Yaoshang Festival organized at Pune
  • Earth Hour: A wakeup call for the Planet
  • Lakes of Rajasthan
  • COVID-19 : Impact in Manipur :: News Timeline
  • BJP feasting on disunity of opposition
  • ST for Meiteis and NRC call : Common thread
  • Nongmaithem Tombi Singh's contribution #3
  • N Tomchou: 3 medals @ World Weightlifting
  • Luwangpokpa Multi-Sports Complex : Gallery
  • Installation of opposition-less Govt in Nagaland
  • Stay hungry, stay foolish
  • Tech-driven MSME for Food Security
  • Plan to shelter amid demand for deportation
  • Temporary Shelter Home at Moreh
  • Thabal Competition #2 : Gallery
  • Lembi Leima: Best Film at 1st NE Film Fest
  • COVID-19 Status 26 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Flexing the farming muscles !
  • Is HIV self-test, missing link to reach #endAIDS
  • 'Vested move' in bringing Phizo's body ?
  • Advantages of being disqualified
  • Onus on state to rake in peace time bonus
  • Process of lifting AFSPA : From 2004 to 2023
  • My Memories of Imphal #15 : Download
  • Q&A with Babloo Loitongbam at Netherlands
  • Job Vacancy @ Makok Tech, Bishnupur
  • Drought :: Poem
  • Law as a career choice
  • COVID-19 Status 25 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Day 2 : Punjab students' tour to Manipur
  • Sajibu Cheirao-chingkaba : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 24 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Central Univ Punjab exposure tour to Manipur
  • Question of Survival
  • lived without love, not one without water
  • World Tuberculosis Day at Arunachal
  • Pulling out of SoO pact with 3 groups
  • Legal hurdles in nailing drug peddlers
  • Sangai Fest: Moyon Dance : Gallery
  • Will lessons from COVID vaccine rollout ...
  • Of water scarcity: Beyond class room teaching
  • COVID-19 Status 23 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Manipur Univ to host students from Punjab
  • Mangrove, the magical tree
  • Ban plastics or set up recycling plants
  • Enforcing ban on single use plastic
  • Sajibu Cheiraoba Chak Katpa #1 : Gallery
  • Tri-Nation International Football Tournament
  • Modern Cancer Treatment in Manipur
  • International conference on Natural farming
  • Importance of farm pond for agriculture
  • Drowned :: Poem
  • Poireiton Khunthok (Abridged Translation) #1
  • Sajibu Cheiraoba (Meitei New Year) : Book
  • COVID-19 Status 21 March : Govt of Manipur
  • 'Implement NRC must precede delimitation'
  • Yuva Samvad - India@2047 organized
  • Serum for hair
  • As you sail through the noises
  • Seizure of PDS rice amid erratic distribution
  • Studying with a purpose in mind
  • Yaoshang Mei Loukhatpa #3 : Gallery
  • Liquor prohibition in Manipur
  • Lifting Bhagyachandra and elephant
  • COVID-19 Status 20 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Bishnupur Cricket Association meeting
  • Fake News & Disinformation New Challenges
  • Prospect, feasibility of natural farming in state
  • Manipur and water crisis
  • Lamta Thangja @Kangla Gate : Gallery
  • Sangai Fest: Kabui Dance : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 19 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Oil and gas scenario in Manipur
  • NPF's 'Gandhigiri' gestures towards NDPP
  • Spreading happiness as a career choice
  • Afforestation campaign: Test of Govt resilience
  • Poppy plantation & agents of desertification
  • My Memories of Imphal #14 : Download
  • Imphal Turel condition [18 Mar] : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 18 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Seminar on Awareness about lifestyle diseases
  • Pole Star :: Poem
  • Blunting of AIDS epidemic: zero-complacency
  • Conduct of election to Municipal in Nagaland
  • Saroi Khangba @ Imphal #2 : Gallery
  • Ima Keithel, a yearlong tourist's destination
  • COVID-19 Status 17 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Her Struggle
  • In Nagaland, NDPP rises & NPF falls
  • Dream Zone - School of Creative Studies
  • Sluggish project works abetting water crisis
  • Taking the NRC call to Delhi : Unifying factor
  • Nongmaithem Tombi Singh's contribution #2
  • Highways of Life :: Movie Review
  • COVID-19 Status 16 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Farewell Maharashtra student : Gallery
  • How healthy is your relationship ?
  • G20: Driving women-led development
  • Yogini Temple of Hirapur, Odisha
  • Holistic laws must to cleanse rot in exam
  • All thunder & lightening but no rain
  • Bora Festival #2 : Gallery
  • Deepika Mayanglambam : Felicitated by Y20
  • COVID-19 Status 15 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Will shorter TB regimen reach those in need
  • From a student, Dear Dhanamanjuri University
  • An inspiring story of a fish farmer journey
  • British Council announces STEM scholarship
  • State's reputation at stake as drug...
  • Briefing Union Home Minister
  • Thabal Competition #1 : Gallery
  • International River day at Lairouching
  • COVID-19 Status 14 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Lembi Leima : Film Premeire at Melbourne
  • Ballad For Gloom :: Poem
  • Dialectics of identity & development #2
  • Patriarchy opting for Gender Equality
  • Demand for NRC, panel testifies restive state
  • All set for HSLC 2023 exams
  • Yaoshang Mei Loukhatpa #2 : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 13 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Railways acts as engine of development
  • The Book of Ichigo Ichie :: Review
  • Platform for women to re-start their careers
  • The rising threat of forest fires
  • Land allotment scam amid uproar over eviction
  • Noting stand of Forest Minister
  • English Pronouncing Skills : Book Download
  • Day 5: Yaoshang Sports : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 12 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Representation to PM seeking appointment
  • Condemnation of CM N Biren's interview
  • Eco-friendly management of fall armyworm
  • Honesty is the worst privacy
  • Resistance to Govt efforts to protect forests
  • Tough times call for tough decisions
  • My Memories of Imphal #13 : Download
  • Day 4: Yaoshang Sports : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 11 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Why COVID-19 continues to be a pandemic?
  • International Women's Day
  • 'Electricity collaboration' diplomacy in BBIN
  • Day 3: Yaoshang Sports : Gallery
  • Yaoshang Sports: Yubi Lakpi at Khongman
  • COVID-19 Status 10 March : Govt of Manipur
  • UNHHRC access to Mizoram & Manipur
  • Govt to withdraw from SOO agreement
  • 4 Filmmakers invited for Indie8 Fest
  • Dialectics of identity & development #1
  • Thabal Chongba @Mongsangei #1 : Gallery
  • Yaoshang Pichakari #1 : Gallery
  • Featured Front Page Photo 2023 #1: Gallery
  • International Women's Day 2023
  • COVID-19 Status 09 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Yaoshang Sports at Khongman
  • International Women's Day at IBSD, Imphal
  • Nakatheng Chatpa @Kakwa : Gallery
  • Yaoshang Mei Loukhatpa #1 : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 08 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Sports item distributed at Bishnupur
  • Parents :: Poem
  • Call for world peace & harmony
  • Tips to play safe Holi
  • Yaoshang Mei Thaba @Imphal : Gallery
  • Yaoshang Mei Thaba @Nabadwip : Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 07 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Yaoshang : Nostalgia, tradition & identity
  • GOI pressure on CM Rio to deliver solution
  • Update gun license otherwise
  • Art Exhibition @ RKCS #1 : Gallery
  • NE Convention on Indigenous Peoples Land
  • COVID-19 Status 06 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Yaoshang (Holi) Festival :: Book
  • Railways: Engine of new growth in NE India
  • Precautionary measures during Yaoshang
  • Persons suffering from Sickle cell disease
  • Training on mushroom at Khangabok
  • Floodlight boon for state's sportspersons
  • Act not think for the future of Meiteis
  • Yaoshang Sen Khaiba : Gallery
  • Students Tour to Nagpur #2 :: Gallery
  • COVID-19 Status 05 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Lampak is calling
  • North East endorses Modi but with conditions
  • Elephanta Caves
  • After village chief, anti-poppy vow by legislator
  • The good & the bad of Yaoshang
  • My Memories of Imphal #12 : Download
  • Sangai Fest: Khutpak Chatkoi #2 : Gallery
  • 538th Birth Anniv of Cheitanya Mahaprabhu
  • COVID-19 Status 04 March : Govt of Manipur
  • Gender gap in STEM: Its impact & solution
  • On Rethinking Corruption
  • How sports help in development of women
  • Lanna Thouram of Chaoren #2 :: Gallery
  • Water use during water crisis: Hunphun/Ukhrul
  • COVID-19 Status 03 March : Govt of Manipur
  • World Wildlife Day : Awareness Cycle Rally
  • Farewell to students from Maharashtra
  • Bodoland International Knowledge Festival
  • Startups & NE India connect
  • Minister Biswajit's anti-poppy stand
  • Show no leniency to poppy growers
  • MANITEX @ Nilakuthi #3 : Gallery
  • Dr Surpriya Hawaibam: Ophthalmology Award
  • Time to get back to basics to end TB
  • In light of reintroducing Damodar Swami
  • Can Myanmar-Bangladesh promote ASEAN
  • Play organic Holi with natural colors
  • Must prepare to derive benefit of border trade
  • ST demand has come a long way
  • Likon Sanaba @Ningthoukhong #2 : Gallery
  • State Project Co-ordinator for Manipur
  • COVID-19 Status 01 March : Govt of Manipur
  • National Science Day at Lilong
  • Lessons from the inferno @Sainik School
  • Messi -- The Name Is Enough -III
  • Tourism is a cross cutting industry
  • Spike in electricity demand
  • Lungnila : Long wait for justice
  • Hiyang Tannaba @ Loktak #4 : Gallery
  • Nongmaithem Tombi Singh's contribution #1
  • March Calendar for Year 2023 : Tools
  • Saroi Khangba @ Imphal #1 : Gallery
  • Sangai Fest: Cherry Blossom @Mao : Gallery
  • Lanna Thouram of Chaoren #1 :: Gallery
  • Singju Festival @Heingang #1 :: Gallery
  • 6th Intl Women's Polo #1 :: Gallery
  • Lui-ngai-ni Fest @ Chandel #1 :: Gallery
  • Mangani Leihun of Chaoren #2 :: Gallery
  • Shopping List for Shivaratri :: Gallery
  • Jiribam Keithel [June 2022] #2 :: Gallery
  • MK Binodini's centenary - oral literature
  • Aribam Syam Sharma :: Filmography
  • Olympians & National awardees of Manipur
  • Downloadable Manipuri Calendar for 2023